
Adapalene
Strong evidenceThe strongest thing you can buy without a prescription, and the best first move for most acne. It unclogs pores before they inflame, which is why it prevents spots rather than treating them.
Seborrheic dermatitis is a common, long-term rash that causes greasy flaking and inflammation where the skin is oiliest - the scalp, the eyebrows, the sides of the nose, the ears and the chest. Dandruff is its mildest form. It responds well to treatment and returns when treatment stops.


The same eight facts on every condition comparison.
It starts in the follicle.
Acne affects the hair follicle and its oil gland.
Spots take several forms.
Plugs form blackheads or whiteheads; inflammation forms pimples and deeper lumps.
It is not about dirt.
Bacteria are only one part of the process.
Tests are rarely needed.
An unusual pattern or hormonal symptoms may call for assessment.
Overview
Oil and dead skin cells block hair follicles. This can cause blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, or deeper painful lumps.
It affects oil-rich areas.
It produces scale and inflammation in sebaceous areas of the skin.
Yeast plays a part.
Malassezia normally lives on skin; an altered response to it contributes to disease.
Dandruff is the mild end.
Dandruff is a milder, scalp-only form of the same spectrum.
Care depends on the site.
A strong scalp treatment may not suit the eyes or facial folds.

Comedonal acne Mostly blackheads and whiteheads.

Inflammatory acne Red papules and pustules.

Nodulocystic acne Deep painful lumps that can scar.

Hormonal acne Breakouts along the jaw and chin.

Body acne On the chest, back and shoulders.

Scalp seborrheic dermatitis From mild dandruff to thick scale.

Facial seborrheic dermatitis Nose folds, eyebrows and beard.

Cradle cap Thick yellow scale on a baby's scalp.
Oil and shed skin cells can block a hair follicle, changing the environment inside the pore. Bacterial activity and the immune response contribute to inflammation, swelling and tender spots.
Malassezia yeast and the skin's response to it contribute to inflammation in oil-rich areas. Irritation and altered surface shedding produce patches with greasy scale.
Acne. Acne Often in teens Often begins in the teen years; acne can continue or first appear in adulthood.
Seborrheic Dermatitis. Occurs in infancy as cradle cap and commonly recurs or begins in adult life.
Acne forms when oil and dead skin cells clog pores, acne bacteria grow inside them, and inflammation follows. Hormones that increase oil play a central role.
Oil and dead skin cells block hair follicles. Bacteria within the follicles and inflammation contribute to pimples and deeper spots. Hormonal changes can increase oil production.
Seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory reaction to Malassezia yeast in oily areas of skin. The yeast is normal; the reaction to it is what differs.
Acne often runs in families. A parent with severe acne raises the chance of severe acne.
Acne can run in families. A close relative with deep, painful acne increases the chance of developing that pattern.
It tends to run in families.
Evidence labels come from each condition’s own treatment list.

The strongest thing you can buy without a prescription, and the best first move for most acne. It unclogs pores before they inflame, which is why it prevents spots rather than treating them.

Kills the bacteria involved in inflamed spots, and is the one thing that stops acne bacteria becoming resistant to antibiotics. Lower strengths work about as well as higher ones and sting less. It bleaches towels and pillowcases.

Works on the spot and the mark it leaves at the same time, which makes it useful on deeper skin tones. It is also one of the few acne treatments considered safe in pregnancy.

Gets inside the pore and loosens the plug, so it suits blackheads and whiteheads more than deep spots. Gentler than a retinoid, and weaker than one.

Sold heavily for acne, and the evidence for clearing spots is thin. It is genuinely useful for the marks left behind and for tolerating stronger actives - just not as the treatment itself.

An old treatment, usually a mask or a spot dab, that dries the surface of a spot and mildly loosens plugs. It is gentle enough for skin that cannot tolerate benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid. It smells, and it is weaker than everything above it on this list.

A 5 percent gel reduces inflamed spots in small studies, more slowly than benzoyl peroxide does. Neat oil straight from the bottle is a common cause of an itchy rash, so buy it already diluted. It is a reasonable extra rather than something to build a routine on.

A descaler for a scalp that has built up a thick crust. It loosens the scale so the antifungal underneath can actually reach the skin. It does nothing to the yeast or the inflammation, and on an already stinging face it is more likely to irritate than to help.

A 5% shampoo has been tested in dandruff with a modest result, and some people do find it helps. It is a common cause of allergic reactions on the face, so it is best kept to the scalp. Undiluted oil straight onto inflamed skin is a reliable way to make things worse.

A mild steroid cream that settles the stinging and redness on the face within a few days, which no antifungal does that quickly. Use it for a week or two to break a flare, not as the ongoing plan — the skin beside the nose and on the eyelids thins with repeated use. Something anti-yeast has to run underneath it.

The active ingredient in most ordinary anti-dandruff shampoos, and a reasonable choice for scalp flaking without much inflammation. It is gentler and easier to use often than ketoconazole. If it has stopped helping, rotating to a different active ingredient usually works better than looking for something stronger.

Another shampoo that reduces the same yeast by a different route, useful when ketoconazole has lost its edge. It works well on a thickly scaling scalp. It has a strong smell and can discolor light, gray or chemically treated hair, so rinse thoroughly and keep it off the length where you can.

An older shampoo that slows scaling and helps some people with a stubborn, thickly flaking scalp. It is more useful when psoriasis is in the picture too. It smells strong and can stain light hair, and there are gentler options with better evidence for this condition, so it is rarely where to start.

The most popular home remedy for this, and one of the few that can genuinely backfire. Malassezia feeds on the fats in most plant oils, so oiling the scalp can hand it more of what it uses, and heavy oils also trap scale against the skin. Softening a crust before washing is the one job an oil does well here.

The most studied topical in acne. Stronger than adapalene and more irritating with it, so it is usually the step up rather than the starting point. Not used in pregnancy.

A newer retinoid, and the one specifically tested on chest and back acne rather than just the face. Useful when the trunk is the main problem. Expensive without coverage.

Calms inflamed spots, but should never be used on its own. Guidelines are explicit about this - alone it stops working within months as bacteria adapt, so it is always paired with benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid.

The strongest of the prescription retinoids, and the step to take when tretinoin has stopped making a difference. It is particularly good on stubborn blackheads and whiteheads. It is also the most irritating of them, so it is usually started two or three nights a week. Not used in pregnancy.

Blocks the hormone signal that drives oil production, but only where you put it. It is the first hormonal option that works topically, and the only one that can be used by men as well as women.

Mild on the skin and tends to suit adult women with inflamed spots who cannot tolerate a retinoid. Applied at the same time as benzoyl peroxide it can temporarily stain skin orange, so space them apart.

Ketoconazole 2% cream. The prescription strength, as a cream for the face, ears, beard area and chest, where a shampoo is impractical. Used daily it settles a facial flare in one to two weeks, then drops to twice a week to hold it. It treats the yeast and not the inflammation, so a sore, stinging face often needs something alongside it for the first week.

A once-daily non-steroid foam approved specifically for seborrheic dermatitis, and it works on the scalp and the face with the same product. It suits people who have been leaning on steroid creams on the face for a long time. Cost and insurance coverage are usually the deciding factor rather than the medicine.

Calms the inflammation on the face without thinning the skin, which is what makes it useful around the nose creases and the eyebrows where steroids cannot be used for long. It stings or feels warm for the first few applications and then settles. It is often used twice a week to hold a face that keeps flaring.

The gentler of the two non-steroid creams, and usually the better fit for thin, easily irritated facial skin. It works a little more slowly than tacrolimus and stings less. Like tacrolimus, its main job here is keeping a face clear without steroids.

A mild prescription steroid for a face that is inflamed and sore, used for one to two weeks to break the flare. It is stronger than over-the-counter hydrocortisone and still gentle enough for facial skin. It is a short course, not a maintenance plan — long steroid use on the face causes its own rash.

Clobetasol scalp solution. A strong steroid shampoo or solution, used on the scalp only, for a thickly scaling flare that an antifungal has not shifted. Two to four weeks at most. It is never for the face, and the antifungal has to keep running underneath it or the flare simply comes back when the steroid stops.

Brings widespread inflamed acne down quickly, and is meant to be used for three to four months, not indefinitely. Always alongside a topical, which is what carries on once the tablets stop.

The only acne treatment that often produces lasting clearance after the course ends. What it costs you is months of dry lips and skin, blood tests, and strict pregnancy prevention. For acne that scars, that trade is usually worth making early rather than late.

For the pattern rather than the individual spot - deep jawline acne in adult women that flares with the cycle. It works slowly, over three to six months, and can be continued long term. Not used in pregnancy.

Lowers the hormone signal driving oil production across the whole body, so it suits acne on the chest and back as well as the face. Takes about three months to show, and carries a small clot risk that needs weighing up.

Another tetracycline antibiotic for widespread inflamed acne, used the same way as doxycycline: three to four months, always alongside a topical. It is usually kept as the second choice, because it carries rarer but more serious side effects, including a blue-gray skin discoloration with long use.

A narrow-spectrum antibiotic designed specifically for acne, so it disturbs gut bacteria less than doxycycline. One tablet a day, still meant for three to four months and still alongside a topical. It works about as well rather than better, and it is considerably more expensive.

A low dose shrinks the oil glands, and with less oil there is less for the yeast to feed on. It is reserved for severe disease that nothing else has controlled, because it dries the skin, lips and eyes and requires strict pregnancy prevention and monitoring. It is an unusual choice here, not a routine one.

Antifungal tablets, usually a short course, for seborrheic dermatitis that is severe, widespread, or has not responded to creams and shampoos used properly. They clear it faster than anything applied on the skin. It interacts with a long list of other medicines and needs a full list of what you take before it is started.

A weekly antifungal tablet sometimes used for widespread or stubborn disease when itraconazole does not suit. The evidence for it in this condition is thinner. Either way, tablets clear a flare rather than change the condition, so the shampoo or cream still has to continue afterwards.

A common antifungal tablet that people are often given for this, and it is a poor match — it works well on the fungi behind athlete's foot and nail infections but has little effect on Malassezia. If a course of it has done nothing, that is expected rather than a sign the diagnosis was wrong.

Deals with one stubborn painful lump, not the condition. It settles in a day or two and is the safe alternative to squeezing it. It does nothing to prevent the next one.

Clears blackheads that are already there, quickly and visibly. It does not stop new ones forming, so it is an add-on to a retinoid rather than a substitute for one.

Modest benefit for clogged pores and a better one for the dark marks left behind. Needs repeat sessions, and the benefit fades if the daily treatment stops.

Heats the oil glands themselves, which is a genuinely different approach from everything else on this page. Trial results out to about six months are good, it works across skin tones, and it is expensive and rarely covered. Long-term data is still limited.

Can help stubborn inflamed acne, but the protocols vary widely between clinics, the downtime is real, and the evidence is not strong enough to put it ahead of the options above.

Blue light kills acne bacteria at the surface, so a course can quiet mild inflamed spots for a while. The effect fades within weeks of stopping, and it does nothing for blackheads or deep lumps. In-clinic courses cost far more than a topical that would do more.

Narrowband UVB in a clinic, considered only for widespread disease on the body that has not responded to creams. It fits with the fact that most people improve in summer. It means several visits a week for weeks, which is a lot of effort for a condition that usually answers to a shampoo, so it is rarely used.
Acne is usually controlled rather than permanently cured. Treatment reduces new breakouts, but improvement takes time and maintenance may be needed. Deep or scarring acne deserves early assessment because existing scars may remain after the active spots settle.
Seborrheic dermatitis commonly returns after treatment is stopped, so maintenance may be needed. Symptoms can be controlled even when the tendency remains. Infantile seborrheic dermatitis usually follows a shorter course and often settles as the baby grows.
Dark marks
Flat brown or violet patches left where a spot was. They are not scars and they do fade, but it commonly takes 6 - 12 months, and sun exposure makes them last longer. These WILL FADE with time.
Redness
Flat pink or red marks left where a spot was, most often on lighter skin. Also not scars. They usually settle on their own, though it can take several months. These WILL FADE with time.
Scars
Permanent dents, pits or raised bumps left where inflammation broke down the skin's structure. Once formed, they can only be improved by procedures. These WILL NOT FADE with time.
Depression and anxiety
Acne can affect self-esteem, confidence and mental health. The link is consistent, and it does not track with how severe the acne looks to anyone else - which is itself a reason to treat it.
Family conflict
This is very common. Acne visits involving a teenager and a parent can sometimes be challenging, particularly when there is ongoing conflict about acne care.
Social impact
People may avoid photos, dating, social situations or activities because of their skin.
Pale marks left behind
On deeper skin tones the rash commonly leaves flat pale patches, often ring-shaped or petal-shaped, along the hairline and on the face. For many people these are the real complaint, not the flaking. The color comes back — the inflammation interrupted pigment production rather than destroying it — but it can take several months, and treating the inflammation early is what shortens it.
Sore, crusted eyelid edges
Seborrheic dermatitis can settle on the rims of the eyelids, where it causes greasy crusting at the base of the lashes, redness along the edge, grittiness and morning stickiness. It is common and it is treatable, but face creams and shampoos are not safe this close to the eye. It needs its own plan, so mention it rather than treating it yourself.
Infection in scratched skin
Scratching or scraping the scale off breaks the skin, and bacteria can settle in the damage. The signs are golden-yellow crust, weeping, a hot sore area, or swollen glands in the neck. It is uncommon, and it clears with antibiotics, but it needs to be seen rather than treated with more shampoo.
Seek help for painful deep spots, scarring, persistent breakouts, or an uncertain diagnosis. Earlier treatment can reduce the chance of more scars.
Do not assume eye symptoms are part of acne. They need their own assessment.
Seek care when the diagnosis is uncertain, the rash is extensive or painful, or routine care does not control it.
For most people it settles by the mid-twenties. About one in six women still has it into her 30s and 40s, and it can return after pregnancy, after stopping the pill, or with any hormone shift. Controlled rather than cured.
Less than the internet suggests. The evidence points at high-glycemic diets - sugar and refined carbohydrate - and, less consistently, at skim milk. Chocolate and greasy food never held up, and no diet replaces treating the skin.
That is purging. Retinoids speed up clogs already forming under the surface, so weeks of spots arrive at once. It peaks around weeks two to six and settles by week eight. Still worsening past 10 to 12 weeks is irritation, not purging.
No. Squeezing pushes the contents sideways into surrounding skin, turning a spot that would have gone in days into a mark that lasts months, or a scar that lasts forever. A large, painful lump can be injected in clinic instead, and settles in a day or two.
Sometimes, but never alone and never for long. They go alongside benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid, usually for three to four months, then stop while the topical carries on. Alone or indefinitely, they stop working and drive resistance.
Almost all acne is hormonal - hormones drive oil production. The label only matters if it changes treatment: deep spots along the jawline and lower face in an adult woman, flaring before periods, usually respond better to hormonal treatment than to antibiotics.
The same process at different intensities. Dandruff is the mild end - flaking and itch with little visible inflammation. Seborrheic dermatitis is the fuller version, with inflamed, discolored skin and greasy scale, and it can involve the face, ears and chest too. The same treatments work for both, and many people move between them over the years.
The infant version clears on its own, almost always within the first year. The adult version is long term. It is very treatable, and most people keep it more or less invisible with a once or twice weekly routine, but controlled is not cured. It fluctuates with season, stress and general health, so quiet spells are normal and not proof it has gone.
For most people it helps, because washing removes the oil and scale the yeast uses. That does not suit every hair type, and frequent washing of textured or treated hair can do real damage. If two or three times a week is not realistic, ask for a leave-on antifungal foam, lotion or cream, or apply the shampoo to the scalp in sections without lathering the length. The plan should fit your hair.
No, on both counts. Malassezia lives on the skin of essentially every adult as a normal resident. Seborrheic dermatitis is your immune system reacting to that normal resident, not an infection you caught, and nobody can catch it from you.
It does not destroy hair follicles or cause permanent hair loss. Severe inflammation and persistent scratching can cause temporary shedding, which recovers once the scalp settles. Hair lost in a defined pattern, or a scarring scalp with smooth bald patches, is a different problem and worth having looked at.
Because the creases beside the nose and the eyebrows are where seborrheic dermatitis lives, and it is easy to read that as your products drying you out. More moisturizer will not shift it, and acids and scrubs make it worse. The test is simple - an antifungal cream a few times a week there usually improves it within two weeks.
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