Ingredient

Coconut Oil

Real evidence for dry skin and eczema. Also a real habit of blocking pores on the face.
Five coconut oil bottles and a jar on white, most labeled fractionated or organic virgin coconut oil

Start here

Coconut oil is one of the few kitchen ingredients I do not talk people out of, as long as we agree where it goes. On dry arms and legs, cracked hands and heels, and itchy eczema skin it is a cheap, decent moisturizer with better research behind it than most natural remedies. The face is where I push back — it is heavy, and in acne-prone skin it has a long history of blocking pores. It is not a treatment, though: it does not replace a prescribed eczema cream, and it is not a sunscreen.

— Dr. Schwarz, Board Certified Dermatologist

Key Facts

Also calledCocos nucifera oil, virgin coconut oil, VCO, copra oil
TypePlant oil. An emollient and occlusive that softens skin and slows water loss
Strengths soldNot sold by percentage. Sold as virgin, refined or fractionated oil
UseOnce or twice a day on damp skin. Body, hands and hair rather than face
Time to workSofter skin within days. The eczema trials ran about 8 weeks
Prescription neededNo

What It Is

Coconut oil is pressed from coconut meat. It is solid at room temperature and melts on skin. About half of it is lauric acid and most of the rest is other saturated fat, which is why it is thick and slow to go rancid. Three versions sit on the shelf. Virgin is cold-pressed from fresh coconut without heat or solvents, and it is the version used in the skin research. Refined, labeled RBD for refined, bleached and deodorized, comes from dried coconut, has no smell and costs less. Fractionated has the lauric acid removed, so it stays liquid and feels lighter; it appears on labels as caprylic/capric triglyceride. In skincare it is a cosmetic, not a medicine. Coconut is also the raw material for ingredients that no longer behave like oil, such as the cleansers cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoyl isethionate.

How It Works

Coconut oil is mainly an occlusive — it sits on the surface and slows water evaporating out. It is also an emollient, filling gaps between surface cells so skin feels smooth. Neither effect is unique to coconut.

In eczema it does a little more. Trials in mild to moderate atopic dermatitis, in children and adults, found virgin coconut oil beat mineral oil on dryness, itch and severity, and cut Staphylococcus aureus, the bacteria that overgrows on eczema skin and drives flares. That is some of the strongest evidence any plant oil has for a skin condition.

Lauric acid, the main fat in coconut oil, kills Cutibacterium acnes in a dish. That one laboratory finding is the source of almost every claim that coconut oil treats acne. It never became a usable acne treatment, and the whole oil is heavy enough that acne-prone skin usually gets worse.

Pore-blocking is the argued part. The ratings people quote came from an old test of how much oils plugged rabbit ears, which exaggerates what happens on human skin. Coconut oil scored badly, and human data barely exist. What is not in dispute is that dermatologists see blocked pores and small bumps in people who use it on the face, mostly acne-prone skin.

Here is where Coconut Oil acts in the skin, and what the others do instead.

About Coconut Oil
Compare
Skin basics
FILLS THE GAPSSTAYS ON THE SURFACELOOSENS DEAD SKINPULLS WATER INPULLS WATER INSEALS WATER INSEALS WATER IN

Emollients are oils and lipids that sit in the spaces between the cells of the outer layer, the mortar between the bricks. They fill those gaps rather than covering them over, so skin feels smoother straight away, water stays in and irritants stay out. Occlusive, and it worsens acne in some people.

Coconut oil is mostly lauric acid, a fatty acid small enough to work its way into the outer layer but not through it. It softens the surface and slows water loss.

These acids work at the surface. They break the bonds holding dead cells to each other, so the top layer sheds more evenly. Skin looks smoother and brighter, and anything applied afterwards gets in more easily.

A humectant draws water into the outer layer and holds it there. Skin holding more water is plumper and more flexible, and fine lines caused by dryness soften within minutes. Seal it with something on top or in dry air the water can simply evaporate away.

A humectant draws water into the outer layer and holds it there. Skin holding more water is plumper and more flexible, and fine lines caused by dryness soften within minutes. Seal it with something on top or in dry air the water can simply evaporate away.

An occlusive sits on the surface and slows water escaping. It adds nothing to the skin; it stops what is already there from leaving, which is why it works best over damp skin.

An occlusive sits on the surface and slows water escaping. It adds nothing to the skin; it stops what is already there from leaving, which is why it works best over damp skin.

The outermost layer, and the one every moisturizer is aiming at. It is dead — flattened cells stacked like bricks, with a mix of fats as the glue between them. That glue is what holds water in and keeps irritants out.

The outer layer, and the only one anything in a jar reaches. It renews itself constantly: a cell made at the bottom takes about a month to reach the surface and flake off. Most of what a skincare product does, it does here.

The living layer underneath, holding the blood vessels, the nerves and the collagen. It is where lasting change happens and it is hard to reach: most of what is sold for the skin never gets this far.

What It Treats

No strong evidence for any condition.

Not the Best For

Scalp Psoriasis

Scalp Psoriasis

Limited evidence

Warm oil left on the scalp for an hour, or overnight under a cap, softens thick scale so it lifts in the wash instead of tearing. That is a real and useful job. It does nothing about the immune inflammation underneath, so on its own it manages the flakes and leaves the disease running.

Keratosis Pilaris

Keratosis Pilaris

Weak evidence

It moisturizes, and moisture genuinely softens the texture a little, so it is not useless. It cannot dissolve a keratin plug, so it will not clear the bumps, and the widely shared claim that it cures keratosis pilaris is not supported. If you like it, use it as the moisturizer over an acid cream rather than instead of one.

Seborrheic Dermatitis

Seborrheic Dermatitis

Weak evidence

The most popular home remedy for this, and one of the few that can genuinely backfire. Malassezia feeds on the fats in most plant oils, so oiling the scalp can hand it more of what it uses, and heavy oils also trap scale against the skin. Softening a crust before washing is the one job an oil does well here.

Dry Skin (Xerosis)

Dry Skin (Xerosis)

Weak evidence

It seals reasonably and it feels good, and that is most of what it does. It replaces very little of what the skin lost, it clogs pores in some people, and on the face and back it can cause spots. If you like it, use it over a cream rather than instead of one — it is a lid, not a repair.

Forms

Sold as a food, a cosmetic, and an ingredient in other products. The version changes how heavy it feels more than what it does.

Cold-pressed and unrefined
Virgin
Pressed from fresh coconut without heat or solvents. Smells of coconut, solid in the jar, and the version used in the eczema studies.
Processed and odorless
Refined (RBD)
Made from dried coconut, then refined, bleached and deodorized. Cheaper, no smell, and a reasonable body moisturizer.
Light and liquid
Fractionated
The lauric acid is removed, so it stays liquid and absorbs faster. Usually listed as caprylic/capric triglyceride. Lighter on skin, but no longer the ingredient the eczema research tested.
A row of Coconut Oil products sold as inside a finished cream or balm, photographed on white.
One ingredient among many
Inside a finished cream or balm
Blended with water, humectants and other oils, so it behaves like the whole formula rather than like oil.

Strengths

Coconut oil has no strengths. It is one hundred percent oil in the jar; all you change is how much and how often. The ladder below is that dial.

WeakestStrongest
A thin film, a few times a weekA thin film, twice a dayA thick layer overnight
Lightest
A thin film, a few times a week
A small amount on damp skin after a shower. Enough for mild roughness on arms and legs.
Everyday use
A thin film, twice a day
How the eczema trials used it, over the affected skin. Where most of the evidence sits.
Heaviest
A thick layer overnight
On hands, feet or elbows, sometimes under cotton gloves or socks. The most sealing option, and the most trouble if it reaches the face.

Basics

When to Apply
On damp skin within a few minutes of a shower, to seal in water still on the surface. Body, hands, feet, elbows and hair, not the face. Morning or night. It layers fine with sunscreen, and it is not one.
How to Start
Warm a small amount between your palms until it melts, then spread a thin layer. Most people use far too much. Still greasy twenty minutes later means use less.
If It Irritates
Allergy is uncommon, but redness, itching or a rash means stop. The commoner problem is not a rash but blocked pores and small bumps where you applied it, mostly face, chest and back.
If It’s Not Working
An oil alone is not enough for an active eczema flare; that needs the anti-inflammatory your doctor prescribed, with the oil around it. For everyday dryness, a cream with water and humectants like glycerin beats a pure oil, because oil only holds in water that is already there.

What to Expect

Days 1 to 3Weeks 2 to 4After 8 weeks
Adjusting
Days 1 to 3
Skin feels softer almost immediately. Expect a greasy film for ten to twenty minutes, and marks on fabric.
Working
Weeks 2 to 4
Rough, dry areas stay soft between applications. If it is going to block pores on the face or chest, this is when.
Judge it here
After 8 weeks
About the length of the eczema trials. If dryness and itch have not improved, you need a different moisturizer or a medical treatment, not more oil.

What to Avoid

  • Not a mixing problem Coconut oil does not react with other skincare. It sits on top of things and goes in the wrong places.
  • The face, if you break out. This is the main one. Blocked pores and small bumps on the cheeks, chest and back take weeks to settle after stopping.
  • Using it as sun protection Plant oils absorb a tiny amount of ultraviolet light, far below anything protective. It has been sold for years as a tanning aid, which tells you what it does.
  • Using it instead of eczema treatment It is a fine moisturizer alongside prescribed treatment, but a flare that needs a steroid will not settle on oil.
  • Seborrheic dermatitis and fungal acne Both are driven by Malassezia yeast, which feeds on the fatty acids coconut oil is made of. That is clinical experience rather than trial data, but it is a common trigger.
  • Layering it straight over an active Over a retinoid or an acid, the oil slows evaporation and drives more of the active in than intended. Expect more irritation.
  • The folklore coconut oil is often flagged as a risk for anyone with a nut allergy. Coconut allergy exists but is uncommon, and it is not tied to tree nut allergy. Cocamidopropyl betaine and cocamide DEA cause far more contact allergy, and they are cleansers, not oil.

If You Stop

Skin goes back to how it was within a few days. Oils sit on the surface and do not change how the barrier repairs, so no rebound and nothing to taper. For eczema, dryness and itch return on the same timeline as stopping any moisturizer, usually within a week. If you stopped because of blocked pores, the bumps clear more slowly than the oil does. Congestion built over weeks takes a similar few weeks to settle, faster with treatment.

Ask Your Doctor

If you have eczema that is actively flaring: Oil will not settle inflamed skin. Treatment will.
If you have acne and want to use it on your face: There is almost always a better option.
If you get redness, itching or hives where you apply it: Contact allergy is uncommon, but it happens.
If you have a known coconut allergy
Skin reactions and food reactions are different things, but ask first.
If you are putting it on a newborn's skin
Oils are used on babies in some places and avoided in others.
If you are using it on broken skin
Open or weeping skin needs different care.

How It Compares

Four ointments on white: CeraVe Healing Ointment, a Vaseline jar, a petroleum jelly tube and Aquaphor16:9 hero for Petrolatum. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Petrolatum

Better

Seals water in better than any plant oil and does not block pores. Coconut oil feels lighter and smells better, which is most of why people prefer it.

Mineral oil

Worse

The comparison used in the eczema trials, where coconut oil did better. Mineral oil is still the safer choice on acne-prone skin.

Sunflower seed oil

Better

Higher in linoleic acid, much lighter, and studied in newborn skin and in eczema. A better pick for skin that clogs easily.

A ceramide moisturizer

Different job

Contains water, humectants and barrier lipids rather than oil alone, so it adds moisture instead of only sealing it in. More expensive, and what most dermatologists suggest first for eczema.

Five tubs of body cream on white, including Karité shea butter, CeraVe, Nivea, Vaseline Radiant and Palmer's16:9 hero for Shea Butter. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Shea butter

The same

A similar heavy, sealing job with less research behind it. Often tolerated better on the face than coconut oil.

Myths

+
  • "Coconut oil cures acne." A dish study showed lauric acid kills the bacteria involved in acne. That is where the claim starts and ends. On skin the whole oil is heavy and more often makes acne worse.
  • "It cannot block pores because it is natural." Natural says nothing about pore-blocking. Being a heavy oil is what matters.
  • "It is comedogenic, rated four out of five." That number comes from an old test of how much a substance plugged rabbit ear pores. The model exaggerates, and no rating predicts what an oil does on your face. It blocks pores in enough people that acne-prone skin should avoid it there.
  • "Coconut oil is a natural SPF." It is not The ultraviolet light it absorbs is nowhere near a usable level of protection, and relying on it means burning.
  • "Oil pulling and eating coconut oil clear your skin." Neither changes skin. Coconut oil is high in saturated fat; dietary questions belong with your regular doctor.
  • "Virgin and refined are interchangeable." As plain moisturizers, more or less. The skin research used virgin, so buy that if the eczema evidence is your reason.

Questions Patients Ask

+

Will coconut oil break me out?

On the body, unlikely. On the face, yes for plenty of people with acne-prone skin, and the bumps show up weeks in. If you already break out, do not find out the hard way.

Is coconut oil good for eczema?

One of the better-studied natural options. In mild to moderate eczema, virgin coconut oil beat mineral oil on dryness, itch and severity, and lowered the Staph on eczema skin. Use it alongside prescribed treatment, not instead.

Virgin or refined, does it matter?

For general dryness, not much. For eczema, choose virgin — that is what was studied. Fractionated is lighter and different, with the lauric acid removed.

Can I use it to remove makeup?

It dissolves makeup and sunscreen well. Follow with a normal cleanser rather than leaving the film on, especially on acne-prone skin.

Is it safe to use in pregnancy?

Very little is absorbed through skin, but ask the doctor managing your pregnancy.

Does coconut oil make hair grow?

No good evidence that it grows hair. Decent evidence that it cuts the protein hair loses in washing, so hair breaks less. Less breakage can look like growth.

References

+