Ingredient

Adapalene

A retinoid that stops pores from clogging. The only true retinoid you can buy without a prescription in the United States.
Five adapalene gel 0.1% tubes and boxes lined up on white, including Differin, Effaclar, PanOxyl and Neutrogena

Start here

Adapalene is the closest thing to a prescription acne treatment you can buy off a shelf. It stops dead cells and oil from plugging the pore, so it clears blackheads and whiteheads that benzoyl peroxide leaves behind. It is slow, and for the first month acne often looks worse as clogs already forming come to the surface. Judge it at twelve weeks, not at four.

— Dr. Schwarz, Board Certified Dermatologist

Key Facts

Also calledDifferin, adapalene gel
TypeTopical retinoid, a vitamin A derivative
Strengths sold0.1% over the counter, 0.3% by prescription
UseNight
Time to work8 to 12 weeks
Prescription neededNo for 0.1%, yes for 0.3%

What It Is

Adapalene is a retinoid — a chemical relative of vitamin A. It is man-made, and was designed in the 1990s to act like tretinoin on the pore but be steadier on the skin. It was prescription-only for over 20 years. The 0.1% gel was approved for sale without a prescription in the United States in 2016. The 0.3% strength still needs a doctor.

How It Works

Acne starts when dead skin cells and oil stick together and plug a pore. Adapalene binds receptors inside skin cells and changes how fast they mature and shed, so cells stop clumping and the plug never forms. It also calms some of the inflammatory signaling that turns a clogged pore into a red bump. Over months the same effect thickens collagen and evens tone, which is why retinoids are used for aging too.

Adapalene prevents; it does not spot treat. It does nothing for today's pimple. It works on the ones that would have appeared in six weeks, and that mismatch is why people give up early.

Adapalene is also more stable than tretinoin. It does not break down in sunlight or when benzoyl peroxide goes on at the same time. That is the practical difference between them.

Acne treatments do not all do the same thing. Here is where Adapalene acts, and what the others do instead.

Pick a treatment
Skin basics
POREEPIDERMISMELANOCYTESDERMISOILGLANDBACTERIACOLLAGENKILLS BACTERIAUNCLOGS THE PORESPEEDS UP CELL TURNOVERSTOPS PIGMENT MOVING UPUNCLOGS THE POREBUILDS COLLAGENFADES DARK SPOTSUNCLOGS THE POREKILLS BACTERIALOWERS OILFADES DARK SPOTSKILLS BACTERIALOWERS OIL PRODUCTIONSHRINKS THE OIL GLANDUNCLOGS THE POREEPIDERMISMELANOCYTESTHE POREOIL GLANDBACTERIACOLLAGENTHE DERMIS

Benzoyl peroxide releases oxygen inside the pore, and the bacteria involved in inflamed acne cannot live in it. It is the fastest of these on red, sore spots, and the one thing that stops acne bacteria becoming resistant to antibiotics.

Salicylic acid dissolves in oil, so it gets down inside the pore rather than sitting on the surface, and loosens the plug of dead skin and sebum blocking the way out. That suits blackheads and whiteheads more than deep, sore spots.

Retinoids change how the pore lining sheds, so plugs stop forming in the first place — which is why they prevent spots rather than treat the ones already there. Given months they also slow pigment reaching the surface and push fibroblasts to build collagen.

Azelaic acid does three things at once: loosens the plug in the pore, reduces the bacteria in it, and calms the pigment cells that leave a dark mark behind. That combination makes it useful on deeper skin tones, where the mark often outlasts the spot.

Niacinamide turns oil production down a little and interrupts pigment being handed to the cells above. The evidence for clearing spots is thin; it earns its place for the marks left behind, and for making stronger actives easier to tolerate.

Clindamycin is an antibiotic that quiets the bacteria in an inflamed pore. Used on its own it stops working within months as they adapt, so it is always paired with benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid.

Spironolactone blocks the hormone signal telling oil glands how much to make. It works on the pattern rather than the individual spot, over three to six months, which is why it suits deep jawline acne that flares with the cycle.

Isotretinoin shrinks the oil glands themselves, and much less oil means less of everything downstream: fewer plugs, fewer bacteria, less inflammation. It is the only acne treatment that often keeps working after the course ends.

The outer layer, and the only one anything in a jar reaches. It renews itself constantly: a cell made at the bottom takes about a month to reach the surface and flake off. Most of what a skincare product does, it does here.

The cells that make pigment. They sit along the base of the epidermis and hand melanin to the cells around them, which is what gives skin its colour. Dark marks, melasma and the patch left behind by a spot are all these cells making more than usual.

A narrow tube running from the surface down into the skin, with an oil gland at the bottom of it. Oil travels up and out. When the tube blocks, what is behind it has nowhere to go — which is where blackheads and spots start.

Makes sebum, the oil that keeps the surface soft and stops water escaping. How much it makes is set by hormones, not by how often you wash — which is why scrubbing does not fix oily skin.

Cutibacterium acnes lives in the pores of everyone with skin. It is not an infection and it is not a hygiene problem. It only causes trouble when a pore blocks and it multiplies in the oil trapped behind it.

The scaffolding in the dermis that keeps skin firm and springy. It is built by fibroblasts and broken down by age, sun and smoking. Lines and looseness are collagen lost faster than it is replaced.

The living layer underneath, holding the blood vessels, the nerves and the collagen. It is where lasting change happens and it is hard to reach: most of what is sold for the skin never gets this far.

What It Treats

Close-up of a cheek with inflamed acne. Raised pink-red bumps, a few with yellow-white heads, sit in a patch of redness, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

Strong evidence

The strongest thing you can buy without a prescription, and the best first move for most acne. It unclogs pores before they inflame, which is why it prevents spots rather than treating them.

Close-up of the lower cheek, mouth and jaw of a young person with light skin, turned three-quarters away from the camera against a pale blue background. Scattered flat pink-red marks cover the cheek and run down towards the jaw. The skin surface is smooth and even, with no raised spots and no change in texture.

Post-Inflammatory Redness

Moderate evidence

The only over-the-counter retinoid strong enough to genuinely control inflamed acne, which is what stops new marks being written. It also speeds up turnover and evens out overall tone. Start three nights a week and build up, because the red, flaky phase is inflammation and will make the marks you have look worse for a few weeks.

Ingrown Hairs

Moderate evidence

A retinoid gel used at night on the shaved area. It thins the plug over the follicle opening so a growing hair is more likely to find its way out, and it slowly evens the dark marks left by old bumps. It takes six to twelve weeks and it does not stop a hair curving back in, so it works alongside a change of razor rather than instead of one.

Not the Best For

Milia

Limited evidence

The over-the-counter retinoid, used at night. It speeds up how the duct lining sheds, which over two to three months lowers how many new milia form. It will not open or empty the ones you already have, because nothing applied to intact skin can reach a sealed sac. Start a few nights a week, and keep it off the eyelids themselves. Ask your doctor about it if you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Limited evidence

A retinoid sold over the counter for acne, and the cheapest way into this class of ingredient. It is better studied for acne than for wrinkles, but it improves fine lines and texture and is often less irritating than tretinoin. Expect less than a prescription retinoid gives. Generally avoided in pregnancy — ask your doctor.

Close-up of light skin with a scattered cluster of small pink raised bumps, some with tiny white tips

Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis)

Weak evidence

A retinoid works on blocked pores, and there is no plug to clear here, so it does not treat the yeast. It is often already in use because the bumps were assumed to be acne. It can stay if you also have genuine acne, but it is not what clears this.

Forms

Over the counter adapalene comes in one strength, 0.1%, so the choice is about texture. Gel suits oily skin. Cream and lotion are kinder to dry or sensitive skin. Check the Drug Facts panel for "Adapalene 0.1%" as the active ingredient — adapalene in the ingredients list without that panel is not a regulated acne treatment.

A row of Adapalene products sold as gel, photographed on white.
Oily skin
Gel
The original and the most widely stocked. Dries fast and leaves nothing behind.
A row of Adapalene products sold as cream, photographed on white.
Dry or sensitive skin
Cream
A softer base that takes the edge off the first few weeks of flaking.
A row of Adapalene products sold as lotion, photographed on white.
Larger areas
Lotion
Thinner and easier to spread over the whole face, the chest or the back.
A row of Adapalene products sold as combination gel, photographed on white.
With benzoyl peroxide
Combination gel
Adapalene and benzoyl peroxide in one tube. Stronger, and more drying.
0.3% gel
Prescription strength
The higher strength, which needs a doctor. Same drug, more of it.

Strengths

Starting at the higher strength is not a shortcut. A product you stop using does nothing.

WeakestStrongest
0.1%0.3%
Over the counter
0.1%
What nearly everyone should start with. Most of the benefit is here.
Prescription only
0.3%
Slightly better clearance in trials, and more irritation. Worth considering if three months of proper 0.1% use has not been enough.

Basics

When to Apply
At night only, after cleansing, on dry skin — wet skin stings more, so wait ten minutes after washing. A pea-sized amount covers the face. Spread it everywhere you break out, including skin that looks clear, and do not spot treat. Moisturizer goes before or after.
How to Start
Two or three nights a week for two weeks, then add a night every week or two until nightly. Moisturize every night either way. Sunscreen every morning — retinoids thin the top layer of skin and make sunburn easier.
If It Irritates
Drop back a night or two, or put moisturizer on first and adapalene on top; neither meaningfully reduces the effect. Skip it on nights your skin feels raw, and for a few days after waxing, threading or a peel.
If It’s Not Working
Give it twelve weeks of steady use. If acne has stalled after that, ask your doctor about the 0.3% strength or a second treatment.

Sample Routine

Here is where Adapalene sits in a day, and what goes around it. Pick what you are treating and what your skin is like, and the rest of the routine changes to suit.

What to Expect

Weeks 1 to 2Weeks 2 to 6Weeks 8 to 12
Adjusting
Weeks 1 to 2
Dryness, flaking and stinging as skin adjusts. This is retinization.
Looks worse first
Weeks 2 to 6
More small bumps. These are clogs already forming, pushed to the surface faster.
The turn
Weeks 8 to 12
Fewer new spots, fewer blackheads, smoother texture.

What to Avoid

  • Other retinoids do not layer adapalene with tretinoin, a prescription retinoid or retinol. Double the irritation, no extra benefit. Pick one.
  • Strong exfoliating acids glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid at the same time strips the skin. Use the acid in the morning and adapalene at night, or on separate days.
  • Scrubs, brushes and astringent toners adapalene already exfoliates. Scrubbing on top is how people end up with a raw face.
  • Waxing, threading and hair removal creams retinoids loosen the top layer, so hair removal can lift skin with the hair. Stop adapalene about a week beforehand.
  • The folklore benzoyl peroxide does not destroy adapalene. That warning belongs to older tretinoin formulas.
  • Sun and tanning beds skin burns more easily. Sunscreen every morning, and cover treated skin on the body.

If You Stop

Acne comes back, usually more slowly than with other treatments. Cells return to their old behavior once the drug is gone, and pores start clogging again over one to three months. There is no withdrawal or rebound. Skin returns to its baseline, not to something worse. Because acne runs for years, dermatologists usually keep people on a retinoid after the skin clears, often two or three nights a week. That maintenance stops the cycle restarting.

Ask Your Doctor

If you are pregnant or planning one
Retinoids are avoided in pregnancy — ask the doctor managing your pregnancy.
If you are allergic to adapalene
Or to anything in the base.
If your skin is broken or in a flare
Sunburned, cracked or eczematous skin heals first.
If irritation is worse after six weeks
It should be settling by then, not building.
If the skin cracks, weeps or blisters
Or you get swelling or hives.

How It Compares

A plain white medicine tube lying at an angle on a white background, capped, labeled Tretinoin in black with a navy blue swoosh curving along its length.Diagram: how Tretinoin works in the skin

Tretinoin

Worse

The older retinoid. Similar clearing overall, but more irritating, and in most countries it needs a prescription.

Three acne wash tubes on white: Differin Deep Cleanser, CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser and PanOxylLabeled cutaway diagram of a single skin pore. The epidermis is drawn as a brick-textured layer across the top and the dermis in pink below it, with a yellow oil gland at the base of the pore. Three callout lines point into the pore: decreases dead cells in pore near the opening, kills bacteria at the cluster of bacteria deep in the shaft, and decreases inflammation in the surrounding dermis.

Benzoyl peroxide

Different job

Better on red, inflamed spots. Adapalene is better on blackheads. Using both beats either one alone.

TazaroteneDiagram: how Tazarotene works in the skin

Tazarotene

Different job

The strongest retinoid of the three, and the most irritating. Usually kept for acne that has not responded to the others.

Myths

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  • "If it has not worked in a month, it is not working." Adapalene is one of the slowest acne treatments to pay off, and worth the wait. Judge it at twelve weeks.

Questions Patients Ask

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Is adapalene the same as retinol?

No. Retinol is a cosmetic ingredient your skin has to convert in two steps. Adapalene is already active and regulated as a medicine, and considerably better for acne.

Is purging real, or is my skin just reacting badly?

It is real, and you can tell them apart. Purging appears where you normally break out and clears within six to eight weeks. A reaction is widespread redness, burning or a rash, often where you never break out, and it does not settle. Purging means keep going; a reaction means stop.

Can I use it in the morning?

You can, but night is better. Adapalene is stable in sunlight, unlike tretinoin, so it will not break down. At night it is not competing with sunscreen and makeup.

Will it help with wrinkles?

Yes, modestly. All retinoids build collagen with long-term use. Adapalene has less evidence than tretinoin, but the mechanism is the same.

Why is my whole face flaking?

Too much, too often, too soon. Drop to two nights a week, use a pea-sized amount, and moisturize before the adapalene until it settles.

References

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