Ingredient

Glycerin

The most common moisturizing ingredient there is. It pulls water into the top layer of skin and holds it there, which is why nearly every moisturizer contains it.
Five moisturizer bottles containing glycerin lined up on white, including a bottle of pure vegetable glycerin

Start here

Glycerin is the ingredient people scroll past, because it is in everything and costs almost nothing. If your skin feels tight, dry or flaky, a plain moisturizer with glycerin high on the ingredient list, used twice a day, beats most of the serums it sits next to. The thing I repeat is that glycerin holds water but does not seal it in, so use it on skin still damp from washing and put something greasier over it in winter. It is also one of the least reactive ingredients we have — if a moisturizer has ever stung you, glycerin is almost never why.

— Dr. Schwarz, Board Certified Dermatologist

Key Facts

Also calledGlycerol, glycerine, E422
TypeHumectant, an ingredient that draws water into the skin
Strengths soldUsually 3% to 10% in a moisturizer; 20% to 45% in products sold as skin protectants
UseMorning, night, or both
Time to workMinutes for the feel of it, about four weeks of steady use for dry, flaking skin
Prescription neededNo

What It Is

Glycerin is a clear, thick, slightly sweet liquid, a simple sugar alcohol with three water-attracting groups on a short carbon chain. Hence how it behaves. It is made from plant oils, animal fats, or built in a lab, and the molecule is identical either way, so a product is not better for coming from coconuts. Your skin already contains it. The body breaks down fats in the outer layer into glycerol, and that natural supply helps keep healthy skin flexible. Glycerin is also a food additive and a common ingredient in medicines, which is one reason its safety record is so long. In the United States it is usually a cosmetic ingredient. At higher concentrations it can be listed as an active skin protectant, a regulated over-the-counter category for products that soothe dryness and chapping.

How It Works

Glycerin is a humectant — it attracts water and hangs on to it. On skin it draws water up from the living layers underneath and out of humid air, holding it in the outer layer where dead cells are stacked. Those cells swell slightly and the surface becomes softer and more flexible, which is why skin feels better within minutes.

It does two quieter things too. It helps the enzymes that dissolve the bonds holding dead cells together, so old cells lift away instead of piling into flakes. And it appears to help the fatty layers between those cells settle into an orderly arrangement, which is what makes a barrier watertight. Both are why glycerin does more for scaly skin than a moisturizing feel would explain.

The limit explains most of the disappointment with hydrating products. A humectant needs water to work with. On bone-dry skin in cold, dry indoor air with nothing on top, there is less for it to hold. It is at its best on damp skin, under an emollient or occlusive. A humectant pulls water in, an emollient smooths the surface, an occlusive seals the whole thing under a film. Glycerin is only the first.

Here is where Glycerin acts in the skin, and what the others do instead.

About Glycerin
Compare
Skin basics
PULLS WATER INSTAYS ON THE SURFACELOOSENS DEAD SKINSEALS WATER INSEALS WATER INFILLS THE GAPSFILLS THE GAPS

A humectant draws water into the outer layer and holds it there. Skin holding more water is plumper and more flexible, and fine lines caused by dryness soften within minutes. Seal it with something on top or in dry air the water can simply evaporate away. The workhorse humectant, in almost every moisturizer.

Glycerin is small and water-loving. It draws water into the outer layer and holds it there, and being water-loving is also why it stops at that layer instead of going deeper.

These acids work at the surface. They break the bonds holding dead cells to each other, so the top layer sheds more evenly. Skin looks smoother and brighter, and anything applied afterwards gets in more easily.

An occlusive sits on the surface and slows water escaping. It adds nothing to the skin; it stops what is already there from leaving, which is why it works best over damp skin.

An occlusive sits on the surface and slows water escaping. It adds nothing to the skin; it stops what is already there from leaving, which is why it works best over damp skin.

Emollients are oils and lipids that sit in the spaces between the cells of the outer layer, the mortar between the bricks. They fill those gaps rather than covering them over, so skin feels smoother straight away, water stays in and irritants stay out.

Emollients are oils and lipids that sit in the spaces between the cells of the outer layer, the mortar between the bricks. They fill those gaps rather than covering them over, so skin feels smoother straight away, water stays in and irritants stay out.

The outermost layer, and the one every moisturizer is aiming at. It is dead — flattened cells stacked like bricks, with a mix of fats as the glue between them. That glue is what holds water in and keeps irritants out.

The outer layer, and the only one anything in a jar reaches. It renews itself constantly: a cell made at the bottom takes about a month to reach the surface and flake off. Most of what a skincare product does, it does here.

The living layer underneath, holding the blood vessels, the nerves and the collagen. It is where lasting change happens and it is hard to reach: most of what is sold for the skin never gets this far.

What It Treats

Dry Skin (Xerosis)

Dry Skin (Xerosis)

Strong evidence

Pulls water into the outer layer and holds it there, which is why almost every good moisturizer has it high on the list. It works best paired with something that seals, such as petrolatum or dimethicone, because water drawn in with nothing over the top simply leaves again. In very dry indoor air, glycerin alone is not enough.

Forms

Glycerin is in nearly every category of skin product, and does most of its work in what you leave on. In a cleanser it rinses away. It is also sold pure, a bottle of clear syrup in the pharmacy — sticky, no better for being stronger, and meant to be diluted. Vegetable glycerin, plant glycerin and glycerol are the same ingredient. Glyceryl stearate and similar names are emulsifiers, a different job.

A row of Glycerin products sold as cream or lotion, photographed on white.
Where it does the most
Cream or lotion
High on the ingredient list of an ordinary moisturizer, holding water in the skin.
A row of Glycerin products sold as hydrating toner or essence, photographed on white.
Damp skin first
Hydrating toner or essence
A watery layer patted on, then sealed. Glycerin needs something to hold.
A row of Glycerin products sold as ointment, photographed on white.
Cracked skin
Ointment
Glycerin in a petrolatum base, so the water it draws in cannot leave.
A row of Glycerin products sold as hand wash or cleanser, photographed on white.
Less than you would hope
Hand wash or cleanser
Rinsed off within a minute. It makes a wash milder, not moisturizing.
Dilute it
Pure glycerin
A bottle of clear syrup. Sticky and unpleasant straight, and no stronger for it.

Strengths

The amount of glycerin is rarely printed on the front, and above a point more is not better, only stickier. What changes is the texture, and how much of the work the glycerin is doing.

WeakestStrongest
Under 5%5% to 10%20% to 45%100%
In most moisturizers
Under 5%
The usual amount in a daily cream or lotion. Enough to matter, not enough to feel tacky.
Hydrating serums and richer creams
5% to 10%
More slip and a slight tackiness. The range in most products that market themselves on hydration.
Skin protectant strength
20% to 45%
The range recognized for over-the-counter skin protectants, for chapped and badly dried skin. Heavy and sticky, which is the trade-off.
Undiluted glycerin
100%
Sold in pharmacies, not meant to be used neat. Thick, tacky, and it can leave skin feeling worse. Use a formulated product.

Basics

When to Apply
Within a few minutes of washing, while skin is still damp. Morning, night or both. It sits happily under sunscreen, makeup, retinoids and acne treatments.
How to Start
No ramping up. Use it as often as your skin feels dry. If a product feels sticky, use less, or choose a cream rather than a gel or serum.
If It Irritates
Genuine irritation from glycerin is rare. Stinging on newly washed or cracked skin usually comes from something else in the product, or a barrier already broken. A plain, fragrance-free cream is the fix.
If It's Not Working
Almost always one of three things. You are applying it to dry skin rather than damp. There is nothing on top to hold the water in, so add a cream or ointment last. Or the air is very dry, and a humidifier at night does more than any product.

Sample Routine

Here is where Glycerin sits in a day, and what goes around it. Pick what you are treating and what your skin is like, and the rest of the routine changes to suit.

What to Expect

Day 1Week 1 to 2After 4 weeks
Immediate
Day 1
Skin feels softer and less tight within minutes. Some products feel tacky as they settle.
Working
Week 1 to 2
Less tightness after washing, fewer flakes, makeup sitting better on dry areas.
Judge it here
After 4 weeks
If skin is still cracking, scaling or itching with twice-daily use, glycerin is not the missing piece. Something greasier, or treatment for the cause, is.

What to Avoid

  • Very little conflicts with glycerin It fits into any routine, at any age, on any part of the body.
  • Applying it to completely dry skin it needs water to hold on to. Put it on within a few minutes of washing, or mist the skin first.
  • Leaving it as the last step In cold, dry weather, with nothing over the top, the water it draws in leaves again. This is the most common reason a hydrating product disappoints.
  • Undiluted glycerin from the pharmacy sticky, uncomfortable, and no more effective than a well-made cream.
  • The folklore glycerin is often said to pull water out of your skin in dry air. That came from lab work using pure glycerin at extremely low humidity, not from a formulated product on damp skin. Put something on top of it.

If You Stop

Nothing happens beyond a return to how your skin was before. Dryness and tightness come back within a day or two, because the effect depends on the product being there. No rebound and no dependence. Glycerin does not stop your skin producing its own moisturizing factors, and it does not thin the skin. The question comes up because people ask it about steroid creams, where the answer is different. Most people use glycerin moisturizers for years without a break.

Ask Your Doctor

If your skin is cracked or bleeding
That needs more than a moisturizer. The skin underneath needs treating.
If dryness came on suddenly
With itching all over. New widespread dry itchy skin in an adult sometimes means more than weather.
If a glycerin product stings every time
That usually means a damaged barrier, or a reaction to something else in the product.
If you get redness, swelling or a rash
Where you applied it. True allergy to glycerin is rare, so the cause is worth finding.
If your child has thick scaling
That has been there since birth. Some inherited scaling conditions need specific treatment.

How It Compares

Five hyaluronic acid serums lined up on white, pump bottles and dropper bottles with their boxes16:9 hero for Hyaluronic Acid. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Hyaluronic acid

The same

Similar evidence. Both are humectants and both work. Glycerin is cheaper, less dependent on humidity, and studied over a longer period. Hyaluronic acid feels lighter under makeup.

Five white jars of 40% urea cream lined up, several also listing 2% salicylic acid16:9 hero for Urea. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Urea

Different job

Urea both holds water and softens thickened skin, so it does more for very scaly skin and rough heels. It can sting on cracked or sensitive skin, which glycerin rarely does.

Four ointments on white: CeraVe Healing Ointment, a Vaseline jar, a petroleum jelly tube and Aquaphor16:9 hero for Petrolatum. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Petrolatum

Different job

Petrolatum seals water in, glycerin draws water up. They are not really competitors, and the best results usually come from a product that includes both.

Four ceramide moisturizers lined up on white: two tubes, a CeraVe tub and a blue jar16:9 hero for Ceramides. Never cropped: the tone strip and the corner logo depend on the full frame.

Ceramides

Different job

Ceramides help rebuild the glue between skin cells, which glycerin does not do directly. Ceramide creams cost more, and most of them contain glycerin anyway.

Myths

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  • "Glycerin dries your skin out in low humidity." This started with lab work using pure glycerin in very dry air. In an actual moisturizer, on damp skin, dryness is not what people report. Glycerin does work better with something on top.
  • "Glycerin is a cheap filler." It is cheap, and it carries much of the work in most moisturizers. Price and usefulness are unrelated here.
  • "Vegetable glycerin is better than the synthetic kind." The molecule is identical whatever it was made from.
  • "Glycerin clogs pores." It is water-loving rather than oily, and one of the ingredients least associated with blocked pores. A product containing it can be too heavy for acne-prone skin, but that is the oils and butters.
  • "More glycerin means a better product." Past roughly 10% it mostly gets stickier. A well-balanced formula beats a strong one.

Questions Patients Ask

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Is glycerin better than hyaluronic acid?

Neither is. They do the same job by different routes, and most moisturizers contain both. Glycerin is cheaper with the longer record; hyaluronic acid feels lighter. If you have to choose, pick the formula that suits your skin.

Should I put glycerin on wet or dry skin?

Damp. Within about three minutes of washing, while there is still water in the skin to hold. That habit beats switching brands.

Can I use pure glycerin from the pharmacy?

You can, but it is sticky and no better than a formulated cream. If you do, dilute it heavily into water or a plain moisturizer.

Does glycerin clog pores?

It is one of the ingredients least likely to. If a glycerin-containing cream is breaking you out, the oils, butters or silicones are likelier.

Is glycerin safe during pregnancy?

Very little passes through the skin, and it has a long history of use in food. Even so, run any routine change past the doctor managing your pregnancy.

Why does my moisturizer feel sticky?

Usually a higher glycerin concentration, or a gel with several humectants stacked. Switch to a cream, or apply less and let it settle before the next layer.

References

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