Compare · Ingredients

Licorice Root Extract vs Vitamin C

Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation. Vitamin C: Some topical formulas modestly improve photodamaged skin and uneven tone.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Six vitamin C products on white, including La Roche-Posay, L'Oréal Revitalift, CeraVe, Vanicream, bliss and Olay

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Mild uneven tone
Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
Modest expectations

Choose Vitamin C if…

Choose for an optional antioxidant and modest photoaging benefits; formula stability matters.

Fine lines and sun damage
An antioxidant step under sunscreen
You tolerate acidic serums

Often combined

Can you use both?

Both brighten and are often found together.

At a glance

● Licorice Root Extract

● Vitamin C

Type

Botanical pigment-targeting mixture

Antioxidant vitamin and derivative family

What it does

Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Some topical formulas modestly improve photodamaged skin and uneven tone.

Best for

Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone

Wrinkles and Fine Lines; Uneven Skin Tone

Studied concentrations

Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.

5% L-ascorbic acid cream and a 10% ascorbic-acid combination were studied.

When to use

On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.

Morning or night, as directed by the finished product.

Time to results

Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks

Often 8–12 weeks in small cosmetic studies; results may be subtle

Irritation

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Acidic formulas may sting; stop for persistent redness or a rash.

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Available

Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

Cosmetic or OTC products; some high-strength procedures are separate treatments.

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Licorice Root Extract

Vitamin C

Moderate evidenceSome supportive research

—

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Small controlled studies found improvement with specific vitamin C formulas.

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Some tested formulas improved photodamage; pigment-specific effects are less certain.

Insufficient evidence

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.

The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

AI-generated educational illustration of Sun Spots: 1. Sun Spots Header — Light Skin; Lighter skin. Not a clinical photograph.

Sun Spots

The cited trials do not establish clearance of individual sun spots.

Acne scarring on light skin. Small sharply cut pits and broad shallow dips across a cheek, several sitting inside faint flat pink marks, with no active spots.

Acne Scarring

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

How it works

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Vitamin C mechanism diagram. Helps limit oxidation: Ascorbic acid neutralizes reactive molecules. Supports collagen enzymes: It is a cofactor in collagen production. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Helps limit oxidation: Ascorbic acid neutralizes reactive molecules. Supports collagen enzymes: It is a cofactor in collagen production.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1 · Source 2

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

Vitamin CMorning

Step 4

Moisturizer

Step 5

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Vitamin C percentages only make sense when the form is named. Human studies include 5% L-ascorbic acid cream and a 15% L-ascorbic acid antioxidant combination; derivatives are different ingredients.

5%

15%

20%

Studied L-ascorbic acid cream

A lower-strength finished cream studied for photoaged skin. A modest percentage can still have clinical evidence.

Studied antioxidant combination

Studied with vitamin E and ferulic acid. The result supports that combination, not vitamin C in every formula.

Absorption-study benchmark

A pig-skin study found maximal delivery at this concentration under its test conditions. It is not proof of the best clinical dose.

Choosing a strength: Check whether the product contains L-ascorbic acid or a derivative. Percentages of different forms are not interchangeable.

Higher strengths: A higher number is not automatically better and may be less comfortable. A laboratory delivery result is not a recommendation to maximize strength.

Formula matters: Acidity, stability, packaging and the other ingredients affect performance. A derivative serum cannot be ranked against L-ascorbic acid by percentage alone.

Forms

Serum · Cream

Serum · Powder · Derivatives

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Licorice Root Extract

● Vitamin C

First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

First few weeksAssess tolerance and texture; immediate softness can come from the base formula.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

4–8 weeksSubtle changes may appear in some tested products; evidence varies.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

8–12 weeksCompare photographs in the same lighting and reassess benefit.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

3–6 monthsPhotoaging trials often need several months; expect modest rather than dramatic change.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

6–12 monthsLong-term evidence is limited for many cosmetic actives; continue only if useful.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Acidic formulas may sting; stop for persistent redness or a rash.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Pregnancy

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

Topical vitamin C is generally considered acceptable in pregnancy; check the complete formula with your clinician.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. The finished product delivers vitamin c in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Ascorbic acid participates in antioxidant and collagen pathways; stability and delivery limit topical performance.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

Getting in

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Product examples

Licorice Root Extract

Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Vitamin C

The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F — 20% THD ascorbate in an oil base, about $20. The Ordinary is refreshingly honest that this is the gentle option.
Vibriance Super C Serum — A $47 vitamin C derivative sold through direct-response advertising aimed at older women. Ordinary formula, aggressive marketing.

Common questions

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Vitamin C:What should I choose vitamin c for?

Choose for an optional antioxidant and modest photoaging benefits; formula stability matters.

Vitamin C:How strong is the evidence?

Small controlled trials support specific formulas over three to six months. Derivatives have different masses and evidence; they cannot be assumed interchangeable with L-ascorbic acid.

Sources

Sources and further reading

Dermapedia on YouTube