Compare · Ingredients

Licorice Root Extract vs Niacinamide

Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation. Niacinamide: Supports barrier function, uneven tone and oiliness.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Six niacinamide products on white, including The Ordinary 10% + Zinc 1%, Paula's Choice Booster and EltaMD UV Clear

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Mild uneven tone
Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
Modest expectations

Choose Niacinamide if…

Choose for barrier support, uneven tone and oiliness; often the gentler starting point.

Barrier support or sensitive skin
Uneven tone or oiliness
You want a gentle, stable starting point

Often combined

Can you use both?

Often found together in brightening and calming serums.

At a glance

● Licorice Root Extract

● Niacinamide

Type

Botanical pigment-targeting mixture

Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide)

What it does

Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Supports the barrier and improves uneven tone

Best for

Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone

Barrier support; uneven tone; oiliness

Studied concentrations

Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.

2–5%

When to use

On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.

Morning or night

Time to results

Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks

About 4–12 weeks, depending on the concern

Irritation

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Usually low; stinging or redness can occur

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Often suitable in a gentle formula

Available

Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

Over the counter

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Licorice Root Extract

Niacinamide

Moderate evidenceSome supportive research

—

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Can improve uneven pigmentation with regular use and sun protection.

a very close view of irritated dry skin with fine flaking and no identifiable body part on light skin.

Barrier Support

Supports barrier lipids and helps reduce water loss in dry skin.

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

A small controlled trial of 5% niacinamide found modest improvement in fine lines.

Oiliness.

Oiliness

2% niacinamide improved some measures of facial oiliness in controlled studies.

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small trial of 4% niacinamide found improvement alongside sunscreen.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

A niacinamide moisturizer was studied for barrier support; its other ingredients also matter.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

Small trials suggest benefit for inflammatory acne; consider it a supporting option.

Insufficient evidence

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.

The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Enlarged Pores on light skin.

Enlarged Pores

Less oil may make pores less noticeable; lasting pore-size reduction is unproven.

Extreme close-up of light skin in an active eczema flare, too close to tell which part of the body it is. Blotchy pink-red inflammation covers the whole frame with no clear edge, with small raised bumps, fine dry scale and a few fresh scratch marks.

Eczema

Barrier benefits do not establish niacinamide as an eczema treatment.

A relaxed forehead with pronounced deep horizontal furrows.

Deep Wrinkles

Fine-line improvement does not establish correction of deep folds.

How it works

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Niacinamide mechanism diagram. Supports the skin barrier: Helps skin make lipids that reduce water loss. Reduces pigment transfer: Less pigment reaches neighboring skin cells. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Supports the skin barrier: Helps skin make lipids that reduce water loss. Reduces pigment transfer: Less pigment reaches neighboring skin cells.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1 · Source 2 · Source 3 · Source 4

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

NiacinamideMorning or night

Step 4

Moisturizer

Step 5

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

NiacinamideMorning or night

Step 4

Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Clinical studies commonly use 2–5% niacinamide for particular concerns. Higher marketed strengths are not a proven upgrade for everyone.

2%

4–5%

10%

Studied for facial oiliness

Controlled studies tested a finished formula for measures of facial oiliness; results do not mean every oily skin needs niacinamide.

Studied for tone and skin aging

Different trials studied pigmentation, melasma or fine lines. The concern and finished formula matter.

Higher marketed concentration

Available in skincare, but not established as universally more effective than the lower studied strengths.

Choosing a strength: A comfortable 2–5% product is a reasonable place to look when choosing for the studied concerns; evaluate the complete formula.

Higher strengths: Higher percentages may sting or irritate some skin. Do not keep increasing the concentration when the product causes discomfort.

Formula matters: Niacinamide is also included in moisturizers without a stated percentage. That does not mean the moisturizer cannot support skin comfort.

Forms

Serum · Cream

Serum · Moisturizer · Toner

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Licorice Root Extract

● Niacinamide

First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

First few weeksAssess comfort. Moisturizer benefits may appear before changes in tone or lines.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

4–8 weeksOiliness or uneven pigmentation may begin to improve.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

8–12 weeksReassess tone and fine lines; expect modest changes.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

3–6 monthsContinue if it helps and remains comfortable.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

6–12 monthsLong-term benefit is less well defined than short-term results.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Stinging, redness, dryness or a rash can occur. Fragrance, preservatives and other ingredients may also contribute to a reaction.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Stop for persistent burning, swelling or an itchy rash. Seek urgent help for trouble breathing or rapidly worsening facial swelling.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a gentle formula and test a small area. Barrier-support claims do not mean every product suits rosacea or eczema.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Niacinamide supports skincare; it does not replace diagnosis or established treatment of persistent acne, melasma or an inflamed rash.

Pregnancy

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

Not covered in this guide yet

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Not covered in this guide yet

This topical ingredient is not a retinoid. Review the complete product with your clinician; do not assume every combination formula is suitable.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. A water-soluble vitamin used in serums and moisturizers.

Entering skin. Human studies show delivery into the outer skin; uptake depends on the formula.

Conversion. Cells use niacinamide to help make NAD+, which supports energy and repair.

Skin response. Supports production of barrier lipids, including ceramides, and helps reduce water loss.

Additional effects. Reduces pigment transfer between skin cells in laboratory models.

Getting in

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Below the 500 Da guideline. Human studies show that the formula strongly affects uptake.

Product examples

Licorice Root Extract

Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Niacinamide

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% — Budget serum.
Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster — Mixes into moisturizer.
CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion — Niacinamide plus ceramides.

Common questions

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Niacinamide:Does niacinamide help fine lines?

There is clinical evidence, including a small 12-week controlled trial of a 5% moisturizer. Expect modest improvement; it does not erase deep wrinkles.

Niacinamide:Is 10% better than 5%?

Not necessarily. Many clinical studies used 2–5%, and a higher concentration is not proven to work better for every concern.

Niacinamide:Can niacinamide treat acne by itself?

Small trials suggest benefit, but the evidence is limited. Persistent, painful or scarring acne needs an established acne treatment plan.

Niacinamide:Does niacinamide permanently shrink pores?

That has not been established. Less oil or a smoother appearance can make pores look less obvious without permanently changing their structure.

Niacinamide:Why does my niacinamide product sting?

The concentration, other ingredients or your skin barrier may be responsible. Reduce use or stop if irritation persists; you do not need to push through it.

Sources

Sources and further reading

Dermapedia on YouTube