Compare · Ingredients

Licorice Root Extract vs Retinol

Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation. Retinol: Targets fine lines and photoaged texture over months.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Six retinol products lined up, including SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5, Murad, CeraVe, First Aid Beauty, RoC and Replenix

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Mild uneven tone
Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
Modest expectations

Choose Retinol if…

Choose for fine lines and uneven texture; introduce slowly and judge results over months.

Fine lines and uneven texture
You want an over-the-counter retinoid
You can wait months for results

Fine together

Can you use both?

Licorice is soothing and can offset retinol redness.

At a glance

● Licorice Root Extract

● Retinol

Type

Botanical pigment-targeting mixture

Vitamin A (retinoid)

What it does

Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Improves fine lines, tone and texture

Best for

Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone

Fine lines; uneven tone

Studied concentrations

Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.

0.1% and 0.4% retinol

When to use

On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.

Night

Time to results

Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks

About 8–12 weeks for early changes; months for fuller benefit

Irritation

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Dryness, redness or peeling can occur

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Start slowly; avoid use on actively irritated skin

Available

Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

Over the counter

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Licorice Root Extract

Retinol

Moderate evidenceSome supportive research

—

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Controlled studies of stabilized retinol show improvement in mottled pigmentation.

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Controlled trials support fine-line improvement with regular use over months.

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

An exploratory study reported fewer lesions; evidence is less established than for acne medicines.

Oiliness.

Oiliness

An exploratory four-week study reported lower sebum levels without a retinol-free control.

Enlarged Pores on light skin.

Enlarged Pores

A small exploratory study reported improved pore measurements; permanent shrinkage is unproven.

Insufficient evidence

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.

The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

Photoaging trials do not establish retinol alone as a melasma treatment.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

Not an established rosacea treatment; it may irritate easily flushed skin.

a very close view of irritated dry skin with fine flaking and no identifiable body part on light skin.

Barrier Support

A retinol moisturizer may hydrate, but retinol itself is not established as a barrier treatment.

Extreme close-up of light skin in an active eczema flare, too close to tell which part of the body it is. Blotchy pink-red inflammation covers the whole frame with no clear edge, with small raised bumps, fine dry scale and a few fresh scratch marks.

Eczema

Not an eczema treatment; dryness and irritation may aggravate inflamed skin.

A relaxed forehead with pronounced deep horizontal furrows.

Deep Wrinkles

Fine-line studies do not establish correction of deep folds.

How it works

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Retinol mechanism diagram. Converts in the skin: Retinol becomes retinal, then retinoic acid. Changes cell activity: Retinoic acid acts through nuclear receptors. Supports collagen renewal: Studies show improved fine wrinkles with continued use. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Converts in the skin: Retinol becomes retinal, then retinoic acid. Changes cell activity: Retinoic acid acts through nuclear receptors. Supports collagen renewal: Studies show improved fine wrinkles with continued use.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1 · Source 2 · Source 3 · Source 4

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

Moisturizer

Step 4

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

RetinolNight

Step 4

Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Studied retinol strengths include 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.4% and 1%. The finished formula and your skin’s tolerance matter more than choosing the highest number.

0.1%

0.3–0.4%

1%

Lower-strength studied formula

Stabilized formulas have improved signs of sun damage in controlled trials. A low percentage can still be active.

Intermediate studied formulas

Studied for skin aging. These are examples from particular formulas, not interchangeable doses or a required next step.

Higher studied formula

Studied in a skin-remodeling model; it was not clearly better than 0.3% in that study. More is not automatically better.

Choosing a strength: Choose a well-formulated product you can use comfortably; introduce it gradually. Retinol, retinaldehyde and prescription retinoids do not have equivalent percentages.

Higher strengths: Do not increase strength while skin is persistently dry, red or stinging. A high-strength label does not guarantee better results.

Formula matters: Stability, packaging and delivery affect performance. Local cosmetic concentration limits differ; study strengths are not a statement that every product is permitted everywhere.

Forms

Serum · Cream

Serum · Cream · Eye cream

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Licorice Root Extract

● Retinol

First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

First few weeksAssess comfort. Dryness or peeling can occur; irritation is not required for benefit.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

4–8 weeksSome tested formulas showed early changes in texture or pigmentation.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

8–12 weeksReassess tone and texture; fine-line changes may still be subtle.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

3–6 monthsA useful period to assess fine lines; a 24-week controlled trial supports benefit.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

6–12 monthsA 52-week study of stabilized 0.1% retinol found continued improvement.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Dryness, redness, peeling or stinging may occur, especially when introduced too quickly. Irritation can leave dark marks in some skin tones.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Pause for persistent burning or a painful rash. Stop and seek advice for swelling, blistering or signs of an allergic reaction.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Introduce slowly on comfortable skin. Active rosacea, eczema or a damaged barrier may need treatment before adding a retinol product.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Cosmetic retinol is not interchangeable with prescription retinoids, and higher strength does not guarantee a better result.

Pregnancy

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

Not covered in this guide yet

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Not covered in this guide yet

Avoid retinol during pregnancy; discuss alternatives when planning pregnancy. Ask your clinician about breastfeeding use and avoid application where an infant could contact it.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. An oil-soluble vitamin used in creams and serums.

Entering skin. It must leave the formula and cross the outer skin barrier.

Conversion. Skin converts retinol to retinal, then to retinoic acid, which acts at nuclear receptors.

Skin response. Retinoic-acid signaling changes skin-cell activity, supporting improvements in texture.

Additional effects. Trials show improvements in fine wrinkles and markers of collagen production.

Getting in

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Below the 500 Da guideline. Delivery depends on the formula, stability and skin condition.

Product examples

Licorice Root Extract

Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Retinol

RoC Retinol Max Hydration Cream — The same undisclosed retinol as the rest of the Correxion line, in a richer base and the same jar.
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Regenerating Cream — A cheap retinol cream that will not tell you its strength — in a jar, and fragranced.

Common questions

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Retinol:Is retinol the same as tretinoin?

No. Retinol is converted through retinal to retinoic acid in skin. Tretinoin is retinoic acid; their percentages and clinical evidence are not interchangeable.

Retinol:Does retinol have to cause peeling?

No. Peeling is a possible adverse effect, not a requirement for benefit. Reduce frequency or pause if skin remains irritated.

Retinol:Is 1% better than 0.1%?

A higher percentage is not a reliable promise of a better result. Stability, formulation, tolerance and how consistently you can use the product all matter.

Retinol:Can retinol replace an acne medicine?

Not automatically. Retinol-specific acne evidence is limited compared with established acne retinoids. Painful, persistent or scarring acne needs appropriate medical care.

Retinol:Can I use retinol during pregnancy?

Avoid retinol during pregnancy. Review alternatives with your clinician, including when planning pregnancy or considering use while breastfeeding.

Sources

Sources and further reading

Dermapedia on YouTube