Bakuchiol vs Licorice Root Extract

Bakuchiol: May modestly improve fine lines and uneven pigmentation. Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five bakuchiol serums on white, including a dropper bottle with purple flowers, COSRX, Paula's Choice, Herbivore and LAUEF

Five licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Bakuchiol if…

Consider for cosmetic photoaging when retinol is uncomfortable; evidence is smaller.

Retinol irritates your skin
You want a gentler anti-aging step
You accept smaller evidence

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Mild uneven tone
Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
Modest expectations

Fine together

Can you use both?

A gentle pairing for tone and texture. No special timing needed.

At a glance

● Bakuchiol

● Licorice Root Extract

Type

Plant-derived cosmetic active

Botanical pigment-targeting mixture

What it does

May modestly improve fine lines and uneven pigmentation.

Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Best for

Wrinkles and Fine Lines; Uneven Skin Tone; Sensitive Skin

Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone

Studied concentrations

0.5% cream twice daily in the cited 12-week trial.

Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.

When to use

Morning or night, as directed by the finished product.

On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.

Time to results

Often 8–12 weeks in small cosmetic studies; results may be subtle

Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks

Irritation

May still irritate or trigger a rash; botanical origin does not guarantee tolerance.

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Available

Cosmetic or OTC products; some high-strength procedures are separate treatments.

Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Bakuchiol

Licorice Root Extract

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

A small active-comparator trial found improvement over 12 weeks.

Uneven Skin Tone

Hyperpigmentation improved in the same small trial.

Sensitive Skin

Less stinging than retinol in one trial; individual tolerance still varies.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.

Insufficient evidence

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Melasma

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.

The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

How it works

Bakuchiol mechanism diagram. Influences cell signaling: Experimental effects overlap some retinoid pathways. May improve photoaging signs: Small clinical studies suggest benefit. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Influences cell signaling: Experimental effects overlap some retinoid pathways. May improve photoaging signs: Small clinical studies suggest benefit.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

BakuchiolMorning or night

Step 3

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 4

Moisturizer

Step 5

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

BakuchiolMorning or night

Step 3

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 4

Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

0.5% bakuchiol cream has been studied for photoaging. This does not make it percentage-equivalent to retinol or establish a best strength for every bakuchiol product.

0.5%

Studied bakuchiol cream

A small randomized trial compared a specific bakuchiol cream with retinol. The study used different application schedules.

Choosing a strength: Choose a finished formula with clear labeling. Bakuchiol content and whole-plant extract content are not the same thing.

Higher strengths: Stronger marketed percentages are not established as more effective. A natural origin does not rule out irritation or allergy.

Formula matters: Do not compare bakuchiol and retinol by matching numbers. Product base, dosing schedule and ingredient identity differ.

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Forms

Serum · Oil · Cream

Serum · Cream

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Bakuchiol

● Licorice Root Extract

First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance and texture; immediate softness can come from the base formula.

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSubtle changes may appear in some tested products; evidence varies.

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksCompare photographs in the same lighting and reassess benefit.

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsPhotoaging trials often need several months; expect modest rather than dramatic change.

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term evidence is limited for many cosmetic actives; continue only if useful.

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

May still irritate or trigger a rash; botanical origin does not guarantee tolerance.

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Pregnancy

Marketed that way, but there is very little safety data, and plant origin is not evidence. Ask the doctor managing your pregnancy. Azelaic acid is the ingredient with an actual record in pregnancy.

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers bakuchiol in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Shows retinoid-like effects in experimental models but is not converted into retinoic acid.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

Getting in

Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Product examples

Bakuchiol

Avène Dermabsolu Concentrated Reshaping Serum

Licorice Root Extract

Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Common questions

Bakuchiol:What should I choose bakuchiol for?

Consider for cosmetic photoaging when retinol is uncomfortable; evidence is smaller.

Bakuchiol:How strong is the evidence?

A 44-person trial compared twice-daily bakuchiol with once-daily retinol without a vehicle arm. No significant difference is not proof of equal efficacy or equal long-term safety.

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Sources