Compare · Ingredients

Licorice Root Extract vs Mandelic Acid

Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation. Mandelic Acid: Exfoliates skin; clinical evidence is mainly from professional acne peels.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Five mandelic acid serums and their boxes lined up on white with clear gel swatches

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Mild uneven tone
Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
Modest expectations

Choose Mandelic Acid if…

Consider for exfoliation; evidence for acne comes mainly from supervised peels.

Acne-prone or darker skin wanting a gentler AHA
Mild texture concerns
Sensitive skin that stings with glycolic

Fine together

Can you use both?

A gentle pairing for dark marks, suited to darker skin.

At a glance

● Licorice Root Extract

● Mandelic Acid

Type

Botanical pigment-targeting mixture

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)

What it does

Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Exfoliates skin; clinical evidence is mainly from professional acne peels.

Best for

Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone

Acne

Studied concentrations

Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.

45% professional peels in the cited acne trial.

When to use

On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.

Start on a few evenings weekly; increase only if comfortable.

Time to results

Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks

Often 8–12 weeks in small cosmetic studies; results may be subtle

Irritation

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Can cause stinging, peeling or irritation; avoid active eczema and rosacea flares.

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Available

Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

Cosmetic or OTC products; some high-strength procedures are separate treatments.

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Licorice Root Extract

Mandelic Acid

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

Professional mandelic peels improved acne in a small comparative trial.

Insufficient evidence

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.

The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Flat light-brown residual marks on a fair cheek.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

The cited acne-peel trial does not establish reliable fading of post-acne marks.

A relaxed forehead with pronounced deep horizontal furrows.

Deep Wrinkles

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

How it works

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1

Mandelic Acid mechanism diagram. Loosens outer cells: An acidic formula helps reduce cell adhesion. Promotes shedding: Strength, pH and contact time affect the response. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Loosens outer cells: An acidic formula helps reduce cell adhesion. Promotes shedding: Strength, pH and contact time affect the response.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1 · Source 2

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 3

Moisturizer

Step 4

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

Mandelic AcidNight

Step 3

Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night

Step 4

Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Mandelic acid skincare and office peels are different products. Controlled acne studies have used professional peels around 40–45%; those strengths are not a target for facial home use.

40–45%

Studied professional peels

Clinician-applied peels studied for mild-to-moderate acne. This describes specific procedures, not a recommended home concentration.

Choosing a strength: For home skincare, use the finished product’s label and your tolerance. Do not assume that a marketed serum reproduces an office peel study.

Higher strengths: Mandelic acid can still burn or irritate skin. Being described as a gentler acid does not make concentrated peels suitable for unsupervised use.

Formula matters: Acidity, vehicle and exposure time influence the effect; percentage alone cannot rank safety or compare mandelic acid with other acids.

Forms

Serum · Cream

Serum · Toner · Peel

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Licorice Root Extract

● Mandelic Acid

First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

First few weeksAssess tolerance and texture; immediate softness can come from the base formula.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

4–8 weeksSubtle changes may appear in some tested products; evidence varies.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

8–12 weeksCompare photographs in the same lighting and reassess benefit.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

3–6 monthsPhotoaging trials often need several months; expect modest rather than dramatic change.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

6–12 monthsLong-term evidence is limited for many cosmetic actives; continue only if useful.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

Can cause stinging, peeling or irritation; avoid active eczema and rosacea flares.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Pregnancy

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

Low-strength leave-on acids are generally considered acceptable; avoid peels and ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. The finished product delivers mandelic acid in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Promotes shedding of surface cells; formula acidity and contact time influence irritation and effect.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

Getting in

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Product examples

Licorice Root Extract

Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Mandelic Acid

The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
Naturium The Energizer Mandelic Acid Body Wash
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid

Common questions

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Mandelic Acid:What should I choose mandelic acid for?

Consider for exfoliation; evidence for acne comes mainly from supervised peels.

Mandelic Acid:How strong is the evidence?

A 50-person, 12-week trial compared 45% mandelic with 30% salicylic peels. It had no vehicle arm and does not establish the benefit of 5–10% home serums.

Sources

Sources and further reading

Dermapedia on YouTube