
Kojic Acid: May help uneven pigmentation, often as part of a combination treatment. Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.


Consider for uneven pigment if tolerated; evidence is mainly for combinations.
Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.
Can you use both?
Often found together in brightening serums.
Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.











Reduces tyrosinase activity: Kojic acid interferes with melanin production. Less new pigment forms: Effects depend on the formula and tolerance.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.

Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.
Kojic acid concentrations in older studies differ from current cosmetic limits. In the EU, kojic acid is limited to 1% in face and hand products; that is not a universal treatment target.
1%
2%
EU cosmetic ceiling
The maximum in specified face and hand products. This is a regulatory limit, not proof of the best efficacy.
Older combination-study strength
Studied with hydroquinone and glycolic acid. The combination result does not isolate kojic acid or establish a current home-use recommendation.
Choosing a strength: Check local rules and the full formula. Kojic acid and kojic dipalmitate are different ingredients and cannot be compared by percentage alone.
Higher strengths: Do not use an older trial’s concentration as a reason to exceed current limits. Irritation or allergic contact dermatitis can occur.
Formula matters: Combination products may obtain benefit from several ingredients. A study of a combination cannot tell you what kojic acid alone contributed.
Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.
Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.
Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.
Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.
Approximate windows, not promises.
First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.
First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.
4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.
4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.
8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.
8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.
3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.
3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.
6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.
6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.
Can cause stinging, redness or contact dermatitis.
Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.
Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.
Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.
Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.
Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.
Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.
Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.
There is not much pregnancy-specific data on kojic acid, and melasma often appears or worsens in pregnancy. Ask the doctor managing your pregnancy first. Azelaic acid and strict sun protection are the usual alternatives.
Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.
On the skin. The finished product delivers kojic acid in a particular vehicle.
Entering skin. Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.
Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.
Skin response. Inhibits tyrosinase activity involved in melanin production; cosmetic formulas differ from studied combinations.
Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.
On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.
Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.
Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.
Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.
Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.
Consider for uneven pigment if tolerated; evidence is mainly for combinations.
A 40-woman split-face trial added kojic acid to hydroquinone and glycolic acid. It does not show that kojic acid alone performs as well as the combination or that higher strengths are better.
Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.
A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.
Sources