Kojic Acid vs Licorice Root Extract

Kojic Acid: May help uneven pigmentation, often as part of a combination treatment. Licorice Root Extract: Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.

Research updated 2026-10-25
Five kojic acid products on white, including a turmeric serum, Medicube capsule cream, Admire My Skin and Seoul CeuticalsFive licorice root products on white, including two Acwell bottles, Éminence, Horbäach liquid extract and Versed

Which one is right for you?

Choose Kojic Acid if…

Consider for uneven pigment if tolerated; evidence is mainly for combinations.

  • Mild uneven tone
  • Hydroquinone isn’t an option
  • You tolerate actives

Choose Licorice Root Extract if…

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

  • Mild uneven tone
  • Sensitive skin that dislikes stronger pigment actives
  • Modest expectations
Often combined

Can you use both?

Often found together in brightening serums.

At a glance

● Kojic Acid
● Licorice Root Extract
Type
Pigment-targeting ingredient
Botanical pigment-targeting mixture
What it does
May help uneven pigmentation, often as part of a combination treatment.
Some licorice-derived compounds are studied for uneven pigmentation.
Best for
Melasma
Melasma; Uneven Skin Tone
Studied concentrations
2% added to hydroquinone and glycolic acid in the cited melasma study.
Extracts are not standardized; the cited small study used a liquiritin cream.
When to use
On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.
On the schedule specified for the product or prescribed treatment.
Time to results
Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks
Usually assessed over 8–16 weeks
Irritation
Can cause stinging, redness or contact dermatitis.
Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.
Sensitive skin
Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.
Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.
Available
Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.
Prescription or cosmetic status depends on the active, formula and country; check the label.

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level
Kojic Acid
Licorice Root Extract
Limited evidenceEarly or small studies
Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

Adding 2% kojic acid improved results in a small combination-treatment trial.
Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small study investigated a specific liquiritin cream.
Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Possible pigment benefit is based on small compound-specific studies.
Insufficient evidence
Flat light-brown residual marks on a fair cheek.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

The cited melasma trial does not establish an independent effect on post-acne marks.
AI-generated educational illustration of Sun Spots: 1. Sun Spots Header — Light Skin; Lighter skin. Not a clinical photograph.

Sun Spots

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
Sensitive Skin on light skin.

Sensitive Skin

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
The front of a forearm on fair skin. Two pale patches with sharp edges sit against lightly tanned skin, and the difference between the patch and the skin around it is subtle.

Vitiligo

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

The cited pigment study did not test rosacea.
Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
How it works

Kojic Acid

Kojic Acid mechanism diagram. Reduces tyrosinase activity: Kojic acid interferes with melanin production. Less new pigment forms: Effects depend on the formula and tolerance.
Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources

Reduces tyrosinase activity: Kojic acid interferes with melanin production. Less new pigment forms: Effects depend on the formula and tolerance.

Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.

Source 1

Licorice Root Extract

Licorice Root Extract mechanism diagram. Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.
Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources

Contains several active compounds: Glabridin and liquiritin have different actions. May help uneven pigmentation: Extracts and clinical evidence vary.

Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.

Source 1

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning
Step 1
Cleanser
Step 2
Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night
Step 3
Moisturizer
Step 4
Sunscreen
Night
Step 1
Cleanser
Step 2
Kojic AcidNight
Step 3
Licorice Root ExtractMorning or night
Step 4
Moisturizer

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Kojic acid concentrations in older studies differ from current cosmetic limits. In the EU, kojic acid is limited to 1% in face and hand products; that is not a universal treatment target.

1%

2%

EU cosmetic ceiling

The maximum in specified face and hand products. This is a regulatory limit, not proof of the best efficacy.

Older combination-study strength

Studied with hydroquinone and glycolic acid. The combination result does not isolate kojic acid or establish a current home-use recommendation.

Choosing a strength: Check local rules and the full formula. Kojic acid and kojic dipalmitate are different ingredients and cannot be compared by percentage alone.

Higher strengths: Do not use an older trial’s concentration as a reason to exceed current limits. Irritation or allergic contact dermatitis can occur.

Formula matters: Combination products may obtain benefit from several ingredients. A study of a combination cannot tell you what kojic acid alone contributed.

Licorice root extract contains multiple compounds, including liquiritin and glabridin. Whole-extract percentages do not reveal the dose of these individual compounds.

Choosing a strength: Look for the named extract or purified compound and evidence for the finished product.

Higher strengths: There is no established universal percentage range or proof that higher whole-extract concentrations improve pigmentation.

Formula matters: A small study of liquiritin cannot establish a recommended strength for every licorice extract, species, or formulation.

Forms
Serum · Soap · Cream
Serum · Cream

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Kojic Acid
● Licorice Root Extract
First few weeks

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

First few weeksAssess tolerance first; pigment change is usually slower.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

4–8 weeksSome studied regimens begin showing pigment improvement.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

8–12 weeksA useful review point for benefit and irritation.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

3–6 monthsMany melasma trials assess results over three to four months; recurrence is common.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

6–12 monthsLong-term use depends on the active; follow a monitored plan rather than extending treatment automatically.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Can cause stinging, redness or contact dermatitis.

Botanical extracts can cause allergy or stinging; check the complete formula.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Avoid actively inflamed or broken skin unless the product is specifically directed for it.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Pregnancy

There is not much pregnancy-specific data on kojic acid, and melasma often appears or worsens in pregnancy. Ask the doctor managing your pregnancy first. Azelaic acid and strict sun protection are the usual alternatives.

Data are limited; ask the clinician managing your pregnancy.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers kojic acid in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Inhibits tyrosinase activity involved in melanin production; cosmetic formulas differ from studied combinations.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. The finished product delivers licorice root extract in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Compounds such as liquiritin and glabridin have different pigment-related actions; they are not interchangeable extracts.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

Getting in
Below the 500 Da guideline; delivery still depends on the formula, solubility, stability and skin condition. Size does not prove effectiveness or penetration depth.
No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Product examples

Kojic Acid
  • Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid — 5% tranexamic acid with kojic acid and niacinamide, for $20. Well built, and no serum fixes melasma alone.
  • MediCube Kojic Acid Turmeric Body Peel Shot
  • MediCube Kojic Acid Turmeric Peel Shot
Licorice Root Extract
  • Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner

Common questions

Kojic Acid:What should I choose kojic acid for?

Consider for uneven pigment if tolerated; evidence is mainly for combinations.

Kojic Acid:How strong is the evidence?

A 40-woman split-face trial added kojic acid to hydroquinone and glycolic acid. It does not show that kojic acid alone performs as well as the combination or that higher strengths are better.

Licorice Root Extract:What should I choose licorice root extract for?

Consider as an optional pigment ingredient; independent clinical evidence is limited.

Licorice Root Extract:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-woman split-face study tested a specific liquiritin cream for four weeks with sun protection. It does not establish that all licorice extracts treat melasma or rosacea.

Sources

Sources and further reading

  1. Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. (1999)
  2. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. (2000)
  3. EU Regulation 2024/996: cosmetic concentration restrictions
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