Compare · Ingredients

Cica vs Niacinamide

Cica: Used in soothing moisturizers; ingredient-specific clinical evidence is limited. Niacinamide: Supports barrier function, uneven tone and oiliness.

Research updated 2026-10-25

Five centella creams on white, a green-tinted jar plus tubes labeled Madagascar Centella, Madeca Cream and Cica Cream Plus

Six niacinamide products on white, including The Ordinary 10% + Zinc 1%, Paula's Choice Booster and EltaMD UV Clear

Which one?At a glance What it helps Diagrams Using both Strengths Results Safety How it works Products Questions

Which one is right for you?

Choose Cica if…

Consider for a gentle moisturizer; check the complete formula and your tolerance.

Sensitive, easily irritated skin
You want a soothing moisturizer
No known plant allergies

Choose Niacinamide if…

Choose for barrier support, uneven tone and oiliness; often the gentler starting point.

Barrier support or sensitive skin
Uneven tone or oiliness
You want a gentle, stable starting point

Often combined

Can you use both?

Often found together in calming serums for redness.

At a glance

● Cica

● Niacinamide

Type

Centella asiatica extract family

Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide)

What it does

Used in soothing moisturizers; ingredient-specific clinical evidence is limited.

Supports the barrier and improves uneven tone

Best for

Sensitive Skin; Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Barrier support; uneven tone; oiliness

Studied concentrations

0.1% madecassoside with 5% vitamin C in a small photoaging trial.

2–5%

When to use

Morning or night, as directed by the finished product.

Morning or night

Time to results

Comfort may improve quickly; reassess persistent dryness

About 4–12 weeks, depending on the concern

Irritation

Can cause a contact rash; avoid assuming botanical products are allergy-free.

Usually low; stinging or redness can occur

Sensitive skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Often suitable in a gentle formula

Available

Cosmetic or OTC products; some high-strength procedures are separate treatments.

Over the counter

What it helps

Compare uses by strength of evidence. Evidence level describes confidence in a benefit, not its size.

Evidence level

Cica

Niacinamide

Moderate evidenceSome supportive research

—

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

A small controlled trial of 5% niacinamide found modest improvement in fine lines.

a very close view of irritated dry skin with fine flaking and no identifiable body part on light skin.

Barrier Support

Supports barrier lipids and helps reduce water loss in dry skin.

Uneven Skin Tone.

Uneven Skin Tone

Can improve uneven pigmentation with regular use and sun protection.

Oiliness.

Oiliness

2% niacinamide improved some measures of facial oiliness in controlled studies.

Limited evidenceEarly or small studies

Sensitive Skin on light skin.

Sensitive Skin

Some formulas may feel comfortable, but an extract alone is not a proven treatment.

A relaxed forehead with faint shallow horizontal fine lines.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines

A small madecassoside/vitamin C trial reported improvement; the ingredients cannot be separated.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

Small trials suggest benefit for inflammatory acne; consider it a supporting option.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

A small trial of 4% niacinamide found improvement alongside sunscreen.

Redness and fine superficial vessels across a light-skinned cheek and nose.

Rosacea

A niacinamide moisturizer was studied for barrier support; its other ingredients also matter.

Insufficient evidence

Scars on light skin.

Scars

The cited combination photoaging study did not test scar treatment.

Inflamed acne on light skin. The spots sit in a patch of pink, and the ring of redness around each one is easy to see. A few have a yellow-white head, and the skin between them is dry and flaking.

Acne

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Flat tan patches with soft irregular edges across the forehead and upper cheek of an adult with light skin, the surface completely smooth.

Melasma

The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.

Enlarged Pores on light skin.

Enlarged Pores

Less oil may make pores less noticeable; lasting pore-size reduction is unproven.

Extreme close-up of light skin in an active eczema flare, too close to tell which part of the body it is. Blotchy pink-red inflammation covers the whole frame with no clear edge, with small raised bumps, fine dry scale and a few fresh scratch marks.

Eczema

Barrier benefits do not establish niacinamide as an eczema treatment.

A relaxed forehead with pronounced deep horizontal furrows.

Deep Wrinkles

Fine-line improvement does not establish correction of deep folds.

How it works

Cica mechanism diagram. Contains plant compounds: Extracts may include madecassoside and related molecules. Repair signaling is being studied: Laboratory findings do not guarantee clinical repair. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains plant compounds: Extracts may include madecassoside and related molecules. Repair signaling is being studied: Laboratory findings do not guarantee clinical repair.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation. Some illustrated pathways are experimental; laboratory findings do not establish a clinical treatment benefit.
Source 1

Niacinamide mechanism diagram. Supports the skin barrier: Helps skin make lipids that reduce water loss. Reduces pigment transfer: Less pigment reaches neighboring skin cells. — Open full-size diagram
Diagram explanation and sources
Supports the skin barrier: Helps skin make lipids that reduce water loss. Reduces pigment transfer: Less pigment reaches neighboring skin cells.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation.
Source 1 · Source 2 · Source 3 · Source 4

Using both in one routine

Built from where each one usually sits in a routine. Introduce one at a time.

Morning

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

NiacinamideMorning or night

Step 3

CicaMorning or night

Step 4

Sunscreen

Night

Step 1

Cleanser

Step 2

NiacinamideMorning or night

Step 3

CicaMorning or night

Strengths and forms

Concentrations

Cica usually means Centella asiatica extract, a mixture whose composition varies with extraction and standardization. There is no established percentage scale that makes different cica products equally potent.

Choosing a strength: Check whether the label names whole Centella extract, madecassoside, asiaticoside, or another purified compound.

Higher strengths: A higher extract percentage does not necessarily mean more of the compounds studied in clinical research.

Formula matters: A study of 0.1% madecassoside with 5% vitamin C cannot be used as a recommended percentage for whole cica extract.

Clinical studies commonly use 2–5% niacinamide for particular concerns. Higher marketed strengths are not a proven upgrade for everyone.

2%

4–5%

10%

Studied for facial oiliness

Controlled studies tested a finished formula for measures of facial oiliness; results do not mean every oily skin needs niacinamide.

Studied for tone and skin aging

Different trials studied pigmentation, melasma or fine lines. The concern and finished formula matter.

Higher marketed concentration

Available in skincare, but not established as universally more effective than the lower studied strengths.

Choosing a strength: A comfortable 2–5% product is a reasonable place to look when choosing for the studied concerns; evaluate the complete formula.

Higher strengths: Higher percentages may sting or irritate some skin. Do not keep increasing the concentration when the product causes discomfort.

Formula matters: Niacinamide is also included in moisturizers without a stated percentage. That does not mean the moisturizer cannot support skin comfort.

Forms

Cream · Serum · Mask

Serum · Moisturizer · Toner

When you’ll see results

Approximate windows, not promises.

● Cica

● Niacinamide

First few weeks

First few weeksSkin may feel softer soon after use; relief depends on the formula.

First few weeksAssess comfort. Moisturizer benefits may appear before changes in tone or lines.

4–8 weeks

4–8 weeksJudge hydration, comfort and whether dryness is recurring.

4–8 weeksOiliness or uneven pigmentation may begin to improve.

8–12 weeks

8–12 weeksPersistent cracking, itch or a rash needs reassessment.

8–12 weeksReassess tone and fine lines; expect modest changes.

3–6 months

3–6 monthsContinue if comfortable; hydration usually requires ongoing use.

3–6 monthsContinue if it helps and remains comfortable.

6–12 months

6–12 monthsMoisturizing does not establish reversal of structural ageing or scars.

6–12 monthsLong-term benefit is less well defined than short-term results.

Safety and sensitive skin

Common reactions

Can cause a contact rash; avoid assuming botanical products are allergy-free.

Stinging, redness, dryness or a rash can occur. Fragrance, preservatives and other ingredients may also contribute to a reaction.

When to stop

Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.

Stop for persistent burning, swelling or an itchy rash. Seek urgent help for trouble breathing or rapidly worsening facial swelling.

Sensitive or inflamed skin

Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.

Choose a gentle formula and test a small area. Barrier-support claims do not mean every product suits rosacea or eczema.

Important limits

Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.

Niacinamide supports skincare; it does not replace diagnosis or established treatment of persistent acne, melasma or an inflamed rash.

Pregnancy

Applied to the skin, very little is expected to be absorbed, but ask the doctor managing your pregnancy. Mention it separately if you also take gotu kola by mouth.

Not covered in this guide yet

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Not covered in this guide yet

This topical ingredient is not a retinoid. Review the complete product with your clinician; do not assume every combination formula is suitable.

How it works

In the skin

On the skin. The finished product delivers cica in a particular vehicle.

Entering skin. No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Conversion. No activation step is established as necessary for its intended topical role.

Skin response. Contains plant compounds studied for inflammatory and repair signalling; extracts are not chemically identical.

Additional effects. Proposed pathways do not establish a measured depth of delivery or clinical benefit beyond the studies cited.

On the skin. A water-soluble vitamin used in serums and moisturizers.

Entering skin. Human studies show delivery into the outer skin; uptake depends on the formula.

Conversion. Cells use niacinamide to help make NAD+, which supports energy and repair.

Skin response. Supports production of barrier lipids, including ceramides, and helps reduce water loss.

Additional effects. Reduces pigment transfer between skin cells in laboratory models.

Getting in

No single molecular mass. The 500 Da guideline cannot be applied to this whole ingredient family or mixture.

Below the 500 Da guideline. Human studies show that the formula strongly affects uptake.

Product examples

Cica

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Boosting Toner
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 — A thick repair balm for damaged, irritated skin. For after a procedure, a retinoid overdose, or a barrier meltdown.

Niacinamide

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% — Budget serum.
Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster — Mixes into moisturizer.
CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion — Niacinamide plus ceramides.

Common questions

Cica:What should I choose cica for?

Consider for a gentle moisturizer; check the complete formula and your tolerance.

Cica:How strong is the evidence?

A 20-person study tested madecassoside together with vitamin C for six months. It cannot isolate Centella extract or establish treatment of acne, eczema or scars.

Niacinamide:Does niacinamide help fine lines?

There is clinical evidence, including a small 12-week controlled trial of a 5% moisturizer. Expect modest improvement; it does not erase deep wrinkles.

Niacinamide:Is 10% better than 5%?

Not necessarily. Many clinical studies used 2–5%, and a higher concentration is not proven to work better for every concern.

Niacinamide:Can niacinamide treat acne by itself?

Small trials suggest benefit, but the evidence is limited. Persistent, painful or scarring acne needs an established acne treatment plan.

Niacinamide:Does niacinamide permanently shrink pores?

That has not been established. Less oil or a smoother appearance can make pores look less obvious without permanently changing their structure.

Niacinamide:Why does my niacinamide product sting?

The concentration, other ingredients or your skin barrier may be responsible. Reduce use or stop if irritation persists; you do not need to push through it.

Sources

Sources and further reading

Dermapedia on YouTube