Cica
Used in soothing moisturizers; ingredient-specific clinical evidence is limited.
Key facts
Cica at a glance.
Helps with
Skin comfort; limited evidence
Results
Comfort may improve quickly
Skin tolerance
Contact allergy possible
Routine fit
Morning or night
At a glance
Top things to know about Cica
- What it is. Centella asiatica extract family.
- What it does. Used in soothing moisturizers; ingredient-specific clinical evidence is limited.
- What limits the claim. A 20-person study tested madecassoside together with vitamin C for six months. It cannot isolate Centella extract or establish treatment of acne, eczema or scars.
- Choosing a formula. Consider for a gentle moisturizer; check the complete formula and your tolerance.
More details: strength, timing and precautions
| Bottom line | Consider for a gentle moisturizer; check the complete formula and your tolerance. |
|---|---|
| Type | Centella asiatica extract family |
| What it does | Used in soothing moisturizers; ingredient-specific clinical evidence is limited. |
| Best for | Sensitive Skin; Wrinkles and Fine Lines |
| Studied concentrations | 0.1% madecassoside with 5% vitamin C in a small photoaging trial. |
| When to use | Morning or night, as directed by the finished product. |
| Time to results | Comfort may improve quickly; reassess persistent dryness |
| Irritation | Can cause a contact rash; avoid assuming botanical products are allergy-free. |
| Sensitive skin | Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle. |
| Available | Cosmetic or OTC products; some high-strength procedures are separate treatments. |
Often used for
What Cica is used for
Sensitive Skin
Some formulas may feel comfortable, but an extract alone is not a proven treatment.
Scars
The cited combination photoaging study did not test scar treatment.
Wrinkles and Fine Lines
A small madecassoside/vitamin C trial reported improvement; the ingredients cannot be separated.
Acne
The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
Melasma
The reviewed sources do not establish this ingredient as a treatment for this concern.
HOW IT WORKS
How Cica works
Diagram explanation and sources
Contains plant compounds: Extracts may include madecassoside and related molecules. Repair signaling is being studied: Laboratory findings do not guarantee clinical repair.
Schematic illustration; not a measurement of skin penetration. Effects vary with ingredient identity and formulation. Some illustrated pathways are experimental; laboratory findings do not establish a clinical treatment benefit.
Types
Types of Cica
Whole Centella extract
Cica usually refers to Centella asiatica. A whole-plant extract contains a mixture of compounds.
Named constituents
Madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid are individual Centella compounds. A product using one isolated compound is different from a product containing a whole extract. Extract percentages do not reveal how much of each compound is present.
Strengths
Cica strengths
Cica usually means Centella asiatica extract, a mixture whose composition varies with extraction and standardization. There is no established percentage scale that makes different cica products equally potent.
Choosing a strength: Check whether the label names whole Centella extract, madecassoside, asiaticoside, or another purified compound.
Higher strengths: A higher extract percentage does not necessarily mean more of the compounds studied in clinical research.
Formula matters: A study of 0.1% madecassoside with 5% vitamin C cannot be used as a recommended percentage for whole cica extract.
Forms
Cica forms
Cream
Richer and more moisturizing; often suits dry skin. The full formula still affects comfort.
Serum
A light liquid or gel that spreads in a thin layer. Can suit layering; it may not provide enough moisture on its own.
Mask
A sheet or spreadable layer kept on the skin for a limited period. Occlusion and the full formula affect hydration and comfort.
Products
Product examples
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Boosting Toner
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5
A thick repair balm for damaged, irritated skin. For after a procedure, a retinoid overdose, or a barrier meltdown.
How to use it
When to use
Morning or night, as directed by the finished product.
How to apply
Apply a thin layer to clean skin using the amount on the product label.
Moisturizing
Use a simple moisturizer if needed; for rich oils or balms, start with a small amount.
Tolerance
Can cause a contact rash; avoid assuming botanical products are allergy-free.
If it is not working
Reassess persistent dryness, cracking or itch; a rash may need diagnosis.
Sun protection
Use broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher each morning, especially when treating uneven pigmentation.
What to expect
First few weeks
Skin may feel softer soon after use; relief depends on the formula.
4–8 weeks
Judge hydration, comfort and whether dryness is recurring.
8–12 weeks
Persistent cracking, itch or a rash needs reassessment.
3–6 months
Continue if comfortable; hydration usually requires ongoing use.
6–12 months
Moisturizing does not establish reversal of structural ageing or scars.
What it pairs with
| Ingredient | Use | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Moisturizer | As needed | Choose a simple formula that improves comfort. |
| Sunscreen | Each morning | Use a tested broad-spectrum product; do not mix other skincare into it. |
| Other active treatments | Introduce separately | Compatibility does not prove an added benefit. Seek a treatment plan when combining medicines. |
Alternatives
Alternatives
Niacinamide
Better studied for redness and barrier support, cheap, and available in well-characterized concentrations. Less pleasant to use on skin that is actively stinging.
Colloidal oatmeal
Better human evidence for itch and for eczema-prone skin, and an approved skin protectant. Textures are less elegant and it does nothing for collagen, real or claimed.
Allantoin
Milder still and with a far lower allergy rate, but no wound or collagen story behind it. The safer choice, and the less interesting one.
Panthenol
A very similar role and similar tolerability, usually in the same products. Neither has strong stand-alone human evidence.
Azelaic acid
A genuine treatment for the redness and bumps of rosacea rather than a soother. It can sting at first, which centella does not.
Topical steroids
Far stronger and faster on inflamed skin, and prescription-controlled for good reason. They thin skin with long use, which is why soothing ingredients still have a place.
Safety and cautions
Common reactions
Can cause a contact rash; avoid assuming botanical products are allergy-free.
When to stop
Stop for persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a new rash. Seek urgent care for breathing difficulty or a severe allergic reaction.
Sensitive or inflamed skin
Choose a simple formula and test a small area first. Individual tolerance matters more than an ingredient’s reputation for being gentle.
Important limits
Do not use a cosmetic product as a substitute for diagnosis of an unexplained, changing or persistent skin problem.
Pregnancy
Applied to the skin, very little is expected to be absorbed, but ask the doctor managing your pregnancy. Mention it separately if you also take gotu kola by mouth.
Questions
Questions you might be asking.
What should I choose cica for?
Consider for a gentle moisturizer; check the complete formula and your tolerance.
How strong is the evidence?
A 20-person study tested madecassoside together with vitamin C for six months. It cannot isolate Centella extract or establish treatment of acne, eczema or scars.
Sources
Sources and further reading
Research updated 2026-10-25. Evidence grades reflect confidence in a specific benefit, not its size.