PRODUCT REVIEW

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum

$92 for an undisclosed retinoid dose, with added fragrance and a red dye.

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Key facts

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum at a glance.

Retinol + HPR ("Tri-Active," undisclosed)

Key active

Lightweight serum

Texture

$85–$92

Approximate price

1 oz

Size

$97.00

Price

Retinoid

Type

What is it?

Top things to know about Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum

  1. Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum is a lightweight, tinted serum in an opaque pump bottle, about $85 to $92. It is a retinoid, so an active treatment rather than a moisturizer, and a night product only.
  2. Murad calls the active "Retinol Tri-Active Technology." Two of the three parts appear on the ingredient list: retinol, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a retinoid ester skin can use with fewer conversion steps. No percentage is given for any of them. The rest is silicones for slip, ceramide NP, fragrance including three declared fragrance allergens, and a red dye.
Not recommended

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum perfumes a retinoid. A retinoid temporarily weakens the barrier, and this adds three declared fragrance allergens and a red dye that only colors it. Tri-Active Technology is a name, not a dose. Buy a fragrance-free retinol that prints its strength.

— Dr. Schwarz

Skin fit

Is it right for your skin?

Sun Damage

Retinoids are the best-evidenced topical treatment for fine lines and rough, sun-damaged skin, and this contains two of them. What it does not tell you is how much. Without a percentage you cannot compare it to the doses in the research, or step up in a controlled way.

Comedonal Acne

Retinoids work on the plug itself, speeding how fast the cells lining a pore shed so it stops blocking. The added fragrance and dye pull the other way on skin that is already inflamed.

Not ideal

Sensitive Skin

The wrong retinoid for reactive skin. A retinoid thins the outer layer while skin adjusts, which makes it likelier to react to whatever else is in the bottle — here, fragrance, three declared fragrance allergens and a red dye that only colors the product.

Texture

What it feels like on skin.

Serum

A light, silky serum with a pink tint; the silicones high on the list give it an almost powdery slide. It is scented and tinted, and neither does anything for your skin. It absorbs quickly and sits under a moisturizer without pilling. The opaque pump is right for a retinoid, which breaks down in light and air.

Alternatives

If this isn’t the right product for you

Recommended more

Good Molecules Gentle Retinol Cream

Fragrance-free, dye-free, both actives disclosed, retinol 0.11% and bakuchiol 0.30%, for about $10. You know what you are buying.

Recommended more

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream

States 1.0% pure retinol, no fragrance or essential oils, in a tube rather than a jar. Strong, and honest about it.

Recommended more

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum

Also an undisclosed dose at around $99, but no dye. Heavily scented, with seven essential oils.

Ingredients · Interactive

What’s in it, and where each ingredient works.

Full ingredient list · 53 ingredients, in label order. Click one.

CyclopentasiloxaneIsopropyl PalmitateC14-22 AlcoholsPolymethylsilsesquioxanePropanediolGlyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateShea Butter Ethyl EstersRetinolHydroxypinacolone RetinoateSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit ExtractSwertia Chirata ExtractSqualanePunica Granatum ExtractTocopheryl AcetateGlycine Soja ExtractUreaYeast Amino AcidsTrehaloseInositolTaurineBetaineDimethyl IsosorbideSilicaEthylhexyl PalmitateSilica Dimethyl SilylateButylene GlycolLecithinAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerC12-20 Alkyl GlucosideCetyl PalmitateLaureth-23Polysorbate 20Trideceth-6 PhosphateSynthetic FluorphlogopiteChlorphenesinSodium HydroxideTris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)CitrateSodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol SulfonateCI 77891CI 14700Alpha-Isomethyl IononeCitronellolParfum
Holds waterRebuilds the barrierSeals and softensKeeps the product working

  1. The base the other ingredients are dissolved in. Most of it evaporates soon after the product goes on.

  2. A silicone that smooths the surface and adds to the protective film.

  3. One of the main fats between skin cells in the outer layer. It helps refill gaps in the barrier.

  4. A form of hyaluronic acid. Its molecule is large, so it stays on the surface and holds water there.

  5. A small humectant. It moves into the outer layer of skin and holds water there.

  6. A light oil made from coconut oil and glycerin. It smooths and softens the surface.

  7. The preservative. It stops bacteria and mold from growing in the product.

  8. Helps the preservative work and softens the feel of the product.

  9. Binds minerals in the water so the preservative works better and the formula stays stable.

What it does
Where it worksSurface
SurfaceBarrierEpidermisDermis

How to use it

How to use it.

Every day

How to apply it

  1. How muchA pea-sized amount for the whole face, kept off the eyelids and the corners of the nose and mouth.
  2. CarefulAdd one night every two weeks and stop climbing if skin gets sore. Retinoids make skin burn faster, so daily sunscreen is not optional, and do not start this in the same month as an exfoliating acid.
Over time

What to expect

  1. What to expectDryness, flaking and stinging in the first two to six weeks settles. Fine lines take three to six months. If skin is still angry after a month the dose is too high — and here you cannot know what that dose is.
In a routine

What to pair it with

  1. Watch outItching, small bumps or spreading redness is more likely an allergy to the fragrance or the dye than an ordinary retinoid reaction. Stop if you see it.

Questions

Common questions.

How strong is Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum?

Not disclosed. "Tri-Active" gives no percentages.

Is Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum fragrance-free?

No. Fragrance and fragrance allergens.

Why is there a dye in Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum?

Purely for color. Allergy risk with no benefit.

Is the Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum packaging good?

Yes, an opaque pump protects the active.

Is Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum worth $92?

It is among the most expensive and least transparent here.

References

Sources.

  1. 1. Retinol Youth Renewal Serum / Murad Skincare (https://www.murad.com/products/retinol-youth-renewal-serum) — Confirms the product's 'Retinol Tri-Active Technology' is a marketing name for a fast-acting retinoid, a delayed-release retinol and a retinol booster, and that Murad discloses no percentage for any component (stated to be proprietary). Link
  2. 2. Evidence for the Efficacy of Over-the-counter Vitamin A Cosmetic Products in the Improvement of Facial Skin Aging: A Systematic Review (https://jcadonline.com/efficacy-of-over-the-counter-vitamin-a/) — Supports that retinol must be metabolically converted to active retinoic acid (one 'route' requiring conversion), and that its efficacy is modest relative to retinoic acid. Link
  3. 3. Tolerance Profile of Retinol, Retinaldehyde and Retinoic Acid under Maximized and Long-Term Clinical Conditions (https://karger.com/drm/article/199/Suppl.%201/57/117728/Tolerance-Profile-of-Retinol-Retinaldehyde-and) — Supports that redness, flaking and stinging are common early retinoid effects, reporting erythema (44%), scaling (35%) and burning/pruritus (29%) during initial treatment weeks. Link
  4. 4. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Explained + Products) — INCIDecoder (https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/hydroxypinacolone-retinoate) — Supports that HPR is a retinoic-acid ester that binds retinoid receptors directly without needing conversion, i.e. a second route to the same receptor that (unlike retinol) needs no conversion. Link